14 replies to this topic

[Mr Jeppato]

I get a grinding sound when i change up into second ive found i can stop this by letting the revs drop a lot and slowly going into gear it wont happen on any other gear (its a x reg cooper just bought it)

[Jammy]

Sounds like your synchro has gone on the second gear, if you can't afford to sort it now try double clutching, but this will only buy you a limited amount of time!!

[clubman katie B.F]

if your mini was built around 1989, i have heard it is a fault with cars of this era....not much you can do apart from rebuildiong the box, or getting another box from a scrappers

[Bungle]

if your mini was built around 1989, i have heard it is a fault with cars of this era....not much you can do apart from rebuildiong the box, or getting another box from a scrappers

he said it was a x reg cooper that a 99-2000 car

[Jackman]

Im living with the same problem, its going to cost me 350 to get it fixed, and now to make things worse i have an oil leak

[Dan]

Second gear syncro is a weak part on all 4-syncro Mini boxes, not just '89 cars. It's because every time you put the car into reverse the reverse idler slams the 1/2/R syncro hub against the second gear briefly, and if you do it before the gearbox has properly spun down then it will damage it (basically if you graunch reverse a lot you'll knacker second gear). Sounds like this is your problem, needs a rebuild.

[clubman katie B.F]

suppose i had better learn how tu reed then

[MrKenneth]

my girlfriend has jus had to get a second hand box reconditioned because of a similar fault. Looking at about 150 plus the cost for someone too put it back in.

She was lucky as a very good friend donated an old box which only needed a new bearing.

[Guess-Works.com]

If anyone has a dire need for a box to be rebuilt I can offer my services.

I have done a few now, and the last one just toped 200 notes in bits, which was a complete rebuild including the diff, but with a few competition parts thrown in for good measure.

Included new Double roller bearing, Single roller bearing, Nose bearing, 18mm Nose bearing, Layshaft bearing set, Comp. Layshaft, Gasket Set, Primary Seal, Diffseals, Idler bearing, Central oil pickup, Baulkrings, Competition Diff Pin, Planet Gears, Mica Thrust washers, Bronze thrust washers, Diff Bearings.

Using the Minispares kits is good for a standard rebuild, and at the moment the A+ rebuild kit ( inc Diff ) is very competative @ 125 notes. clicky

PM me if you want to discuss.

[dklawson]

If you don't want to spend the money... double-clutching will help you indefinitely... not just for a little while. Double clutching is common practice on non-synchro boxes.

[frostie]

can anyone explain double clutching?

[Jammy]

Shifting down: pull out of the gear you're in, bring the clutch upto the bite briefly, then put the clutch back in as you select the next gear.

Shifting up: Do the same, only when you bring the clutch up to the bite, rev the engine a bit.

[dklawson]

Jammy, you've got the "up" and "down" part reversed.

When upshifting (1 to 2, 2 to 3, etc. ) you briefly release the clutch between gears. In downshifting (4 to 3, 3 to 2, etc. ) you release the clutch between gears, quickly blip the throttle, then push the clutch in and finish your shift. Downshifting is the tricky one. Upshift double clutching is a piece of cake.

What you're trying to do is get the laygear in the gearbox to the right speed for the next gear you're going to select. For example, when downshifting it's necessary to accelerate the laygear so that the next gear down is rotating at the same speed as the output shaft prior to completing the shift.

[Jammy]

Did think I might have, but was trying to concentrate on what my boss was saying at the same time!!

[dklawson]

It is hard to type on this forum when those nosey office people start hanging about isn't it? They always show up when I'm online.