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Alternator removal questions


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#1 GarethP

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 10:47 PM

Hi - just joined the mini forum - previously only been on minifinity.
Live in Luxembourg (though English) and have just bought a 1999 Mini 40 - only 20,000kms, 5k of which I've put on in the last 3 months.

My first post, and first question - need desperately to get the alternator off tomorrow morning, and need to know procedure - looks to me as if the gril and rad will need to come off - how do I take the rad off w/o damaging it or popping off the hose?? Have no access to a Haynes or posibility of getting one tomorrow, as am in foreign climes!

HELP!!!

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#2 Cir-clipalot

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 12:16 AM

hi and welcome!
grill comes off easily enough, and alternator held on by 3 bolts if i remember right altho if you loosen 4 you can pivot it first. i dont think the rad needs to come off. Pretty straightforward really!

#3 GarethP

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 05:41 AM

awesome. even on a front rad mini?? will have a go this morning - pulled a sickie to get it sorted...

#4 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 07:02 AM

If it's a twin point injection the the procedure is slightly different... ( as the alternator is in a differnt place to most 'normal' minis :cheese: )

See piccy...

#5 GarethP

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 07:09 AM

that's perfect guessworks!!! thx!

don't suppose you have the page where it tells you how to remove the drive belt??
does it mention removing the grill or rad? hav enow removed the grill, but there's still a bloody great radiator stopping me from getting to the underneath bolts on the alternator.
assume there is a procedure for just dropping the rad without having to disconnect it????

cheers.

#6 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 07:24 AM

I was just about to post, if you need more pages shout, but If you want I have a CD with all the workshop manuals on 1959-2001, and loads-a other stuff, which I will quite gladly post.. follow the clicky for more information...

clicky

but in the meantime.. here's the other page...

#7 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 07:24 AM

and the page on adjusting the belt...

#8 GarethP

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 07:33 AM

you are a life saver!!
thank you!!
in the mean time, if you can see any other relevant pages, would be most appreciated.

cd for me pls!!!
email is [email protected] - will paypal you the funds if that's ok.

#9 Cir-clipalot

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 09:23 AM

oops forgot about theser newfangled front radiator minis, eeh i can remember when all this were nowt but fields, youth of today dont know theyre born etc etc

#10 GarethP

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 09:35 AM

excuse my ignorance, but when looking at the grill area from the front, to the left and down there is a horizontal cylinder (just underneath oil filter) - I assume this is the starter motor???
if so, my electrical shorting has fried the wire coming out of it!!!
it's never simple.
see pic:

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#11 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 09:47 AM

yep...

#12 GarethP

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 10:04 AM

right - before going and buying a new socket set to undo the belt tensioner square bolt (not enough room for a spanner), what are the percentage odds that if i just replace the positive feed wire to the alternator (see pic for burn damage), that this is the only issue, and that my alternator hasn't fried its diodes...??? HISTORY: flat battery and a nameless person chucked the jump leads on the wrong way round.

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#13 GarethP

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 12:43 PM

ok - rewired the cable to the alternator (stripped it back and fitted a new connector). Put everything back together (had started to remove the alternator before noticing burnt wire), and hooked the battery up.
turned on the ignition, and fuel pump started, amp gauge looked normal, turned the key...
the starter motor worked, and the engine half turned over, then stopped - kept doing the same thing each time. It felt like something was stopping it turning over. Pushed the inertia / fuel cut off switch, and same result. The switch itself doesn't really seem to push in - is there something odd there?
Immobilser seems to me turning on and off ok - ie. indicators are flashing in correct sequence, and dash light come on & off.
don't understand.
especially since engine would run properly after the incident, just not for very long as the alternator had no connection to the battery (cable burnt), and the battery would run flat v quickly.
now has new battery in as well.
does this just confirm that the alternator is dead??
HELP. again.

#14 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 03:09 PM

Just been looking at the wiring diagram ( attached ) and the wire which has burnt out has this "Hypalon fuseable cable", I'm sorry but injection minis are beyound me ( they work by voodoo IMO :erm: ) and I don't know what this is, but anything which says fuseable and short mean it's not probably as it should be...

#15 GarethP

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Posted 12 May 2005 - 09:44 PM

she runs again!!!! replaced fusible cable, and put the connectors back on - sorted - alternator spared!

thank you ever so much everyone for your time and help. much appreciated.

to top the day off, this lot arrived from w&p. weekend sorted then...

Moto Lita John Cooper Sig Wheel 13" dished
Boss Kit for 1999 Mini 40 LHD
Cooper Badged Billet Alloy Centre Cap
Black Cooper Winged Badge.
Central door locking kit
Alarm interface kit
K&N performance air filter for injected models (direct replacement)
Blue Mini Parking Only sign
Dashboard vent trims (pair)
Vent control knob cover (pair)

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