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Wont Start After Running Perfect


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#16 dklawson

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 08:23 PM

If the car was running and driveable but suddenly is not and the plugs are immediately sooty, do not jump immediately to adjusting the jet. They don't suddenly go out of adjustment.

Read over the manual for your carburetor and before touching the jet, check and adjust the float valve in the float bowl. Make sure you aren't just dumping raw gas directly into the intake.

#17 asmith88

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 08:32 PM

oh no what does a float bowl look like? so would they all turn anticlockwise to weaken the mixture do you reckon?

#18 asmith88

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 08:34 PM

If the car was running and driveable but suddenly is not and the plugs are immediately sooty, do not jump immediately to adjusting the jet. They don't suddenly go out of adjustment.

Read over the manual for your carburetor and before touching the jet, check and adjust the float valve in the float bowl. Make sure you aren't just dumping raw gas directly into the intake.


the mini always started rubbish, then when i replaced the plugs it went and started well for a few times and then decided it didnt want to anymore

#19 lrostoke

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 08:42 PM

See in the picture linked two, on the left, bit with the 3 screws and a pipe connection, thats a float bowel, does yours look something like that

http://www.morrismin.....ettor HS2.jpg

#20 asmith88

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 08:52 PM

it has the bronze tube but no float bowl underneath, the bronze tube comes from under the carb, its never been connected to anything.

#21 lrostoke

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 08:57 PM

If theres no float bowel like shown then its most likey an Hif38 or Hif44, these are basically updated carbs fitted to later models

the 38 stands for 38mm and the 44, go on have a guess :D it refers to the choke aperture size..

As for adjusting, never done one, I know its a screw inside a hole on the side of the body, but not sure where..I'm sure that PM I sent as diagrams showing where and how.

If you could take photos of your carb set up, would help anybody giving advise..

There is a breather on the Hif's this may be what the go no where bronze tube is

#22 asmith88

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 09:02 PM

yea dosent seem to say in haynes wether its clockwise or anti clockwise to make the mixture leaner

#23 lrostoke

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 09:11 PM

No it seems to assume your using a gas anaylser in that edition, so just expects you to turn either way till you get the right reading..

I've just googled and found an article about Hif's, and it says turn the mixture screw in to richen, screw out to weaken

Are you Newcastle upon Tyne ??

Edited by lrostoke, 22 April 2008 - 09:12 PM.


#24 ginigwunkle

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 09:15 PM

i would set upir plug gaps first.... 25 thou!

the wrong gap may be leading to poor spark, fuel build up and running rich.....

although running rich MAY mean that there wont be anything wrong with your old plugs....just sooty so they cant spark....!

#25 asmith88

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 11:11 PM

i would set upir plug gaps first.... 25 thou!

the wrong gap may be leading to poor spark, fuel build up and running rich.....

although running rich MAY mean that there wont be anything wrong with your old plugs....just sooty so they cant spark....!


i was using bp6es i needed the ngk resisted type for electronic ignition anyway, so the plugs would have had to been changed anyway, dont have a spark plug gap tool, yea i am in newcastle upon tyne, why do u ask?

#26 lrostoke

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 06:00 AM

Just asking in case it was the same Newcastle as me, I'm in the midlands though (Staffordshire), I've got all the gear here >_<

#27 asmith88

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 02:43 PM

heres a few pics if it helps, i tried adjusting the fuel mixture this morning and cleaning the spark plugs it just keep coming out black cant get it right, also it made it easier to start jumping it with my escort, but wont start at all without but turns over fine, also i took a pic of something, its the last pic, was just wondering what it was, cheers!!

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#28 dklawson

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 03:00 PM

Looks like electronic ignition and HIF carb. Sorry... I wont' be able to help further.

However, buy a spark plug gap checking tool. Never assume the gap is "correct" out of the box. Remember, you're not buying a plug specifically for a Mini. That same plug could be used in MANY different engines.

Do NOT clean spark plugs with a wire brush either. The wire brush will leave metal tracks on the insulator and they will be conductive which can ruin an otherwise good plug. Since your plugs are new and sooty, the deposits are probably nothing more than loose carbon. Use brake or carb cleaner spray and a soft bristle brush to clean the insulator then allow the plugs to dry. They will never be pristine again but you don't want them covered with soot. The soot will conduct electricity and effectively kill (or at least weaken) the spark.

It sounds like you need to carefully go through a complete carb adjustment. You really need to pick up a Haynes or SU manual and read it through prior to that undertaking so you can understand and complete all the adjustments.

#29 asmith88

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 03:25 PM

even haynes i cant understand, im gona have to get it to a garage, i really dont have a clue, how much for a spark plug gap tool?

#30 lrostoke

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 04:47 PM

The last picture is your heater on / off valve..
I bet your heater stays at one temp all the time, its not got the cable attached.

Just a few things that aren't clear on the pics...left side of the carb, theres a big pipe, its a crank case breather pipe..were does it go...is it blocked off ?? If it goes nowhere it needs plugging.

also theres a wire going under the coil, seems to say resistive on it, wheres it going to ??

Have you a ballasted or non ballasted coil ?? can't see a ballast wire going to it ?

Edited by lrostoke, 23 April 2008 - 04:52 PM.





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