welding?? boot & floors
Started by
bradz
, Feb 15 2004 10:06 PM
22 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 15 February 2004 - 10:06 PM
Hi all, i have a 84" mini city MK4 (i think) it has no discs?
1. my boot has a lot of holes in it where is the best place 2 get a bootsection? how will i weld it in? can i do it from in the boot?
http://homepage.ntlw...ty/S2300024.JPG
http://homepage.ntlw...ty/S2300025.JPG
2, Both bits of the front floor is also gone, where is best 2 get floors? there are no holes on the inside of the car, just on the bottom skin,
http://homepage.ntlw...ty/S2300018.JPG
http://homepage.ntlw...ty/S2300019.JPG
sorry for the large amount of questions, also how much should i pay for each floor and boot to be welded? im tempted 2 have a go myself as i can get hold of mig welder for nothing? or will it be hard?
Thanks very much
Adam
1. my boot has a lot of holes in it where is the best place 2 get a bootsection? how will i weld it in? can i do it from in the boot?
http://homepage.ntlw...ty/S2300024.JPG
http://homepage.ntlw...ty/S2300025.JPG
2, Both bits of the front floor is also gone, where is best 2 get floors? there are no holes on the inside of the car, just on the bottom skin,
http://homepage.ntlw...ty/S2300018.JPG
http://homepage.ntlw...ty/S2300019.JPG
sorry for the large amount of questions, also how much should i pay for each floor and boot to be welded? im tempted 2 have a go myself as i can get hold of mig welder for nothing? or will it be hard?
Thanks very much
Adam
#2
Posted 15 February 2004 - 11:36 PM
Hello mate, the best thing you can do is to look thru the magazine adverts and see who has the panel you require at the price you can afford. Cheap is not always good, but then again the heritage panels aren't always a good fit either.
Welding a new boot floor will be quite an involved job. If your confident about your welding skills and that you can do the job, then have a go. If you get a body shop to do it, then your probly gonna pay quite a bit for it but hopefuly it will be done properly.
Welding a new boot floor will be quite an involved job. If your confident about your welding skills and that you can do the job, then have a go. If you get a body shop to do it, then your probly gonna pay quite a bit for it but hopefuly it will be done properly.
#3
Posted 15 February 2004 - 11:52 PM
ok thanks so how much is quite a bit for a garage 2 do it?
#4
Posted 16 February 2004 - 12:00 AM
How longs a peice of string?
All depends on the shop you take it to and the quallity of their workmanship. Either way your be lookin at quite a bit - over £100 easily I recon.
Why dont you buy a new boot floor and just cut out the sections from it that need to be replaced and repare the one you got with that.
All depends on the shop you take it to and the quallity of their workmanship. Either way your be lookin at quite a bit - over £100 easily I recon.
Why dont you buy a new boot floor and just cut out the sections from it that need to be replaced and repare the one you got with that.
#5
Posted 16 February 2004 - 08:38 AM
Hi , First the boot floor , If i was welding this I would make repair sections from a flat steel sheet and weld in , I would cut out the ragged edges and then make a plate slightly larger and weld from inside the boot (fully seam the edges) and then seam sealer from underneath to stop water ingress.
Floorpans , From the picture it looks as though it has been bodged before, Am i right in thinking that the floor is now double-skined and only the lower is rotted away ?, If this is the case then someone has put in floor pans and not removed the rotted old ones first . The best way to tackle this would be to buy two floor pans (front section L&R) , you lay the new panel in and mark around the edges , Take an angle grinder with a cutting disk and remove everything inside the line (leave about 10mm overlap) also be aware the brake pipes and fuel pipes runn under the floor ! , lay in the new section and weld all arond the edge (seam sealer underneath )
This is only a quick guide to give you an idea of the job ahead , If you know someone who can weld you could do all the prep work and save yourself a few bob , if not get a lot of practice steel and weld it all together untill you are happy your welding is good enuf ( visions of the flintstone car !)
The front floor pans are about £16 each .
Any other quetions , dont hesitate to ask :grin:
Floorpans , From the picture it looks as though it has been bodged before, Am i right in thinking that the floor is now double-skined and only the lower is rotted away ?, If this is the case then someone has put in floor pans and not removed the rotted old ones first . The best way to tackle this would be to buy two floor pans (front section L&R) , you lay the new panel in and mark around the edges , Take an angle grinder with a cutting disk and remove everything inside the line (leave about 10mm overlap) also be aware the brake pipes and fuel pipes runn under the floor ! , lay in the new section and weld all arond the edge (seam sealer underneath )
This is only a quick guide to give you an idea of the job ahead , If you know someone who can weld you could do all the prep work and save yourself a few bob , if not get a lot of practice steel and weld it all together untill you are happy your welding is good enuf ( visions of the flintstone car !)
The front floor pans are about £16 each .
Any other quetions , dont hesitate to ask :grin:
#6
Posted 16 February 2004 - 11:35 AM
Aha.
I'm in the same boat as bradz with the front of the floors being rusted, though I don't have two skins.
Woody, I have a question on your method for fitting the new floor, what do you do about the front subframe mounting points? Although the metal immediately around the mounting bolts on my car is ok (the rest isn't) and the new floor panels continue up the inner wheel arch about 3inches providing new metal for the mounts.
If you just lay the new panel on top of the old then the subframe mounts won't line up properly will they? I was planning to bash (sorry 'panel-beat' ) a raised flange on the new panel so that it lap-joints onto the old floor but leaves the underside of the floor smoothly continuous.
By the way this is the Hornet and it is 34 years old. This is the worst bit of rust on it and it hasn't (to my knowledge) had anything new weld in except the outer sills. The majority of the floor is amazingly solid. ill get a pic of it soon!
CHeers
I'm in the same boat as bradz with the front of the floors being rusted, though I don't have two skins.
Woody, I have a question on your method for fitting the new floor, what do you do about the front subframe mounting points? Although the metal immediately around the mounting bolts on my car is ok (the rest isn't) and the new floor panels continue up the inner wheel arch about 3inches providing new metal for the mounts.
If you just lay the new panel on top of the old then the subframe mounts won't line up properly will they? I was planning to bash (sorry 'panel-beat' ) a raised flange on the new panel so that it lap-joints onto the old floor but leaves the underside of the floor smoothly continuous.
By the way this is the Hornet and it is 34 years old. This is the worst bit of rust on it and it hasn't (to my knowledge) had anything new weld in except the outer sills. The majority of the floor is amazingly solid. ill get a pic of it soon!
CHeers
Attached Files
#7
Posted 16 February 2004 - 01:20 PM
Here's that pic of the floors. Am really glad I'm not welding all that!
Attached Files
#8
Posted 16 February 2004 - 05:50 PM
thanks all for your help, but i have decided to sell up, as i really dont have the time to do all this work, dont worrry im going to get another, make me an offer if your intrested! or ask for pics
Adam
Adam
#9
Posted 16 February 2004 - 07:51 PM
Hi David, The subframe mounts on our cars (I have a 1968 Riley Elf) are differant to the later cars and do come down lower into the floor pan , so i would probably remove the bolts (after cutting out the rot), line up the holes , replace the bolts and then weld and as i would be welding the subframe mounts i would weld inside and underside of the repair section .
It realy depends on the extent of the rot , which varies in every case .
It realy depends on the extent of the rot , which varies in every case .
#10
Posted 17 February 2004 - 12:15 PM
Woody,
That is my plan exactly.
How would you recommend I support the car whilst removing the subframe bolts?
Obviously I don't want the mount to be under stress as when the bolts cpme out the subframe will move away from or towards the floor.
Currently Ihave put a piece of timber crosswise under the floor crossmember and shimmed it up so that it is supporting some of the tub weight with axle stands beneath the subframe in line with the drive shafts. I reckon this set up should put the least stress on the subframe mounts.
??
That is my plan exactly.
How would you recommend I support the car whilst removing the subframe bolts?
Obviously I don't want the mount to be under stress as when the bolts cpme out the subframe will move away from or towards the floor.
Currently Ihave put a piece of timber crosswise under the floor crossmember and shimmed it up so that it is supporting some of the tub weight with axle stands beneath the subframe in line with the drive shafts. I reckon this set up should put the least stress on the subframe mounts.
??
#11
Posted 17 February 2004 - 09:56 PM
Sounds like you have it all under control . :smartass:
#12
Posted 25 February 2004 - 02:46 PM
Hey all here are a few pics that you may find useful when replacing your floor boards...
Al
Al
#13
Posted 25 February 2004 - 02:50 PM
This pic is of the floor already cut out and measured up...as you can see mine is alittle more extensive then any of yours as i have had to cut the cross frame apart too cause it was rotten as well.
Al
Al
Attached Files
#14
Posted 25 February 2004 - 02:57 PM
here it is with the cross frame repaired, rebuilt and re welded in place and with the new floor board welded in place... it looks pretty good if you ask me. You can also see in this pic that the other floorboard is already cut out too. Somebody was asking in an earlier post about the front subframe mounts and how to avoid cutting them, well i just unbolted it and slid a piece of steel betweenit and the floor board as not to nik it when cutting out the floor. then i followed up and drilled the hole in the new floor board from underneath.
Al
Al
Attached Files
#15
Posted 25 February 2004 - 11:21 PM
Verry neat mate :grin:
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