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R1 Sump Baffle


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#16 johnnie

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Posted 28 July 2008 - 08:07 PM

We've just been sent the sump baffle for Andys Pro-motive R1 and it appears that we've got to remove the oil level switch? I'm not all together happy about that, anybody else had this problem?

Edited by johnnie, 28 July 2008 - 08:08 PM.


#17 roofless

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Posted 28 July 2008 - 08:09 PM

We've just been sent the sump baffle for Andys Pro-motive R1 and it appears that we've got to remove the oil level switch? I'm not all together happy about that, anybody else had this problem?


what? permanently?

#18 johnnie

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Posted 28 July 2008 - 08:32 PM

We've just been sent the sump baffle for Andys Pro-motive R1 and it appears that we've got to remove the oil level switch? I'm not all together happy about that, anybody else had this problem?


what? permanently?



my understanding is that its a permanent removal :huh: I've not seen it yet??

Seems a bit risky to me, apparently its not an issue on a race bike (which I do understand)

I just wondered if all baffle plates were like this?

#19 roofless

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Posted 28 July 2008 - 09:14 PM

We've just been sent the sump baffle for Andys Pro-motive R1 and it appears that we've got to remove the oil level switch? I'm not all together happy about that, anybody else had this problem?


what? permanently?



my understanding is that its a permanent removal :huh: I've not seen it yet??

Seems a bit risky to me, apparently its not an issue on a race bike (which I do understand)

I just wondered if all baffle plates were like this?


must admit - I wasn't aware of this ??

#20 YIANO

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Posted 30 July 2008 - 06:37 AM

ive just pick one up from fluke motorsport for my r1 promo :P build ,no mention of this oil swith removal and no drilling to fit block either !
heres a how to:
http://www.fluke-mot...ffle/index.html

i understand that oil level switch removal is required by some baffle designs but not others, all you have to do if its a question of available space within the box is to use an external sender monitoring the oil system ,not ideal but certainly better than nothing, although id guess the removal in most cases is due to slow oil return which would illuminate the oil light every time and this may confuse people !

Edited by YIANO, 30 July 2008 - 06:49 AM.


#21 YIANO

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Posted 30 July 2008 - 07:19 AM

Further more i suppose you could always install an oil pressure sender in a sandwich plate or via t piece around the remote oil filter assembly at least you could monitor oil pressure for piece of mind and ultimately if your oil level dropped so low as to bring on the oil light in the first place your oil pressure would have dropped first alerting you to the problem
get you hands on the excellent demon tweeks professional motorsport equipment catalogue its free and full of useful stuff !

#22 Alburglar

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Posted 10 August 2008 - 03:51 PM

We've just been sent the sump baffle for Andys Pro-motive R1 and it appears that we've got to remove the oil level switch? I'm not all together happy about that, anybody else had this problem?



you do not have to remove the switch just drill a hole in the baffle plate.
Fit the plate, remove the switch, offer the sump up and draw round the hole:
Posted Image
Then cut the hole out:
Posted Image
Easy peasy

#23 Alburglar

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Posted 10 August 2008 - 03:58 PM

...and for oil pressure and temp:
Posted Image
I had to make my own to use these fittings, but the good news is the real cheapo sandwich plates on ebay with holes for 1/4 inch fittings are thin enough for the filter to be well clear of the exhaust manifold. All yoy have to do is drill through the sandwich plate so there is always oil passing through it.
Posted Image

Edited by Alburglar, 10 August 2008 - 04:00 PM.


#24 YIANO

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Posted 13 August 2008 - 11:03 PM

bingo !

#25 Joe250

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Posted 20 August 2008 - 03:44 AM

Based on the advice of other BEC owners here and on the Locost forum, I decided to go with the Fluke baffle. There was no provision for the oil level sensor. I planned on drilling out a hole to accomodate the sensor but it would have left that side of the baffle a bit flimsy imo. I just removed the sensor and blocked off the hole. I also drilled and tapped the block for one bolt on the narrow half of the baffle. Nothing was holding that side down and it seemed it would likely vibrate around until breaking. As it is now, I think everything is solid and should work well. Of course, I won't know for many months.

My write-up

Posted Image

Joe




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