Need quick help!
Started by
Pavel
, Feb 24 2004 12:17 PM
16 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 24 February 2004 - 12:17 PM
After removing my disc brake assemblies, I now need to refit them!
Problem is how the *#&# do I get the balljoints back?
When I connect the upper arm and put the balljoint thread through it, how do I get it on tightly? I cant put on a nut because it just turns with the balljoint!!!!!!! And if I hammer it in, it keeps popping out!
Help?
Problem is how the *#&# do I get the balljoints back?
When I connect the upper arm and put the balljoint thread through it, how do I get it on tightly? I cant put on a nut because it just turns with the balljoint!!!!!!! And if I hammer it in, it keeps popping out!
Help?
#2
Posted 24 February 2004 - 03:09 PM
First thing to do is to clean the thread on the balljoint and nut so that it spins on easily, WD40 will help too.
If its clean enough you might be lucky and it'll just go straight on. If not, jack the suspension up so that the balljoint is being forced into the top arm it should then tighten up easily.
well that's how I do it.
Wil
If its clean enough you might be lucky and it'll just go straight on. If not, jack the suspension up so that the balljoint is being forced into the top arm it should then tighten up easily.
well that's how I do it.
Wil
#3
Posted 24 February 2004 - 05:44 PM
Great Idea!!
Not in a brainstorming state today! :nugget:
So I jack up the hub to fit the upper arm joint, and i jack up the lower arm to fit the lower joint.... but then what about the steering one?
Not in a brainstorming state today! :nugget:
So I jack up the hub to fit the upper arm joint, and i jack up the lower arm to fit the lower joint.... but then what about the steering one?
#4
Posted 24 February 2004 - 06:32 PM
careful, your not allowed to use brain storm anymore. its now offensive to some people.
#5
Posted 26 February 2004 - 10:04 AM
As Wil says, cleaning the threads is the main thing, also making sure there isn’t a pile of grease on the taper where it is supposed to ‘grip’. Bit of a dilemma there a you want it all to come apart again should you need to dismantle it but at the same time you don’t want to grease it ‘because it will spin. If the joints spin that easily then you might want to check that they aren’t worn out.
That hasn’t answered you question at all has it?
Anyone else?
That hasn’t answered you question at all has it?
Anyone else?
#6
Posted 27 February 2004 - 11:49 AM
get a jack under it, that pushes the cup onto the joint and gives if friction,but im on drums so mines completely different, id take a shim out and see if that helps, sounds like they might be on their way out, change em now whilst the hubs off maybe?? damn sight easier to do them in a vice!!
shim shimmidy shim shimmidy shim shim shadoo! haha!
Richie
shim shimmidy shim shimmidy shim shim shadoo! haha!
Richie
#7
Posted 28 February 2004 - 09:21 AM
another way of doing up ball joints, ensure clean threads, the right nut, always better, pref new if nylock, and use a suitable bar to apply pressure under the ball joint while you tighten the nut. hope this helps. :wales:
#8
Posted 28 February 2004 - 02:28 PM
The jack method worked with a bunch of them.
The rest I have a problem with because when I was separating them they wouldn't come apart so I resorted to plan B (hammering the nut and rod together with a heavy metal hammer). Anyway that stripped the thread on the top of 2 of the joints, and deformed the top so I can't thread on a new nut... Should I just cut off the top 2mm off the joint thread, or is there more to it?
Thanks
The rest I have a problem with because when I was separating them they wouldn't come apart so I resorted to plan B (hammering the nut and rod together with a heavy metal hammer). Anyway that stripped the thread on the top of 2 of the joints, and deformed the top so I can't thread on a new nut... Should I just cut off the top 2mm off the joint thread, or is there more to it?
Thanks
#9
Posted 28 February 2004 - 10:18 PM
dont bother cutting anything off just poop down and by a new one, all parts are cheap enough, though i would suggest a ball joint splitter for future use :grin: there really isnt much differance in the 2 types available, personally i preffer the wedge type, the screw type can couse more damage if ball joint is being a bit*H and is seized.
happy miniing
happy miniing
#10
Posted 29 February 2004 - 10:36 AM
Can't buy anything for that car. It cost me 100 pounds and I don't want to spend more on its repairs than it costs. It's a simple project involving as few replacement parts and as much human labour as possible! So I guess I'll chop em
#11
Posted 29 February 2004 - 05:57 PM
ARE YOU INSANE!
you cant possibly think about chopping one of the most important parts of the entire hub assembly! for less that £20 GBP you can replace the top and bottom joints on both sides, god knows what kind of bodges you've done elsewhere but please dont risk it!
do a proper job, it isnt rocket science!
you cant possibly think about chopping one of the most important parts of the entire hub assembly! for less that £20 GBP you can replace the top and bottom joints on both sides, god knows what kind of bodges you've done elsewhere but please dont risk it!
do a proper job, it isnt rocket science!
#12
Posted 29 February 2004 - 06:30 PM
explain please the danger of removing 2mm worth of thread from the top of the balljoint...
#13
Posted 29 February 2004 - 06:44 PM
its upto you at the end of the day, all im saying is that by chopping a bit off you might weaken them, and by the sounds of it theyre pretty worn anyways.
#14
Posted 29 February 2004 - 06:47 PM
they are completely fine, and when I say the top 2mm I actually mean that. its literally ONE rotation of the thread that has stripped.
#15
Posted 29 February 2004 - 06:50 PM
well, if you're happy then cool, just been and had a look at mine, thought that the threaded shaft was flush with the top of the nut, it protrudes 1 1/2cm so im sorry, plenty to play with, have you tried a new nut? or try re tapping it...
Rich
Rich
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