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How To Roller Paint Your Car...


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#1 Jimmy Hat

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 08:43 AM

Right well I know this has probably been covered many times before, but as a complete newbie to car painting (and painting in general) Id like to know some more about how to roller paint your car, things like what type of paint to use, what rollers, how to sand it between coats, painting techniques etc etc. All the thread I've seen so far on various forums have been 10 page or so discussions which I dont fancy trawling through to find the info I want :/ so Id appreciate it if somebody could post or point me in the right direction to just a guide which tells me everything I need to know to go out and roller paint my car... current paint jobs really cheap so it'll need redoing at some point...
Oh yes and how might I go about getting a metallic or flip finish to the paint?

Edited by Jimmy Hat, 22 September 2008 - 08:46 AM.


#2 bert998

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 08:55 AM

To be quite honest if you cant read 10 pages on how to do it I very much doubt you will have the enthusiasm to see the job through. Thats not a criticism, i just dont want to see you waste your time and money. Rollering is a long arduous process, however the results can be pleasing IF you can see it through. :P

Personally I would beg steal or borrow a compressor (retro 10s did a nice job with an electric sprayer) as it will speed up the process ten fold.

#3 Retro_10s

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 09:12 AM

I'm going to finish the 'How-to' on Roller paint I started, the amount of times this gets asked is unreal.

I'll briefly outline how to do it but please go and read some of the threads, that's why we keep them. I will do a 'How-to' that explains it for once and for all :P

You need paint (Tractol, Tekaloid, Rustoleum, Brightside)
4" gloss rollers
White spirit

You flat off inbetween every 2-3 coats with P800 Wet and dry used wet. The final coats are flatted off with P1500-2000. then buffed with G3 Compound.

Thinners are white spirit (do not use low odour type) and the ratio is about 70/30, it goes on very thin and watery. you will need around 8 coats of paint,.. and the colour will not block out till around the 3rd coat if done properly.

Iv'e used an electric sprayer and 2k paint... It wasn't the best job to say the least but That's because I couldn't see through the mask well at all and i was fairly unfamiliar with 2k paint. Since then I've used synthetic and it came out beautifully, 2k is coming out really nicely too now but needs to be baked really. Practice practice practice.

If you're not too far from me you can come and visit and i'll show the difference between rollering paint on compared to the ease of spraying.

#4 Jimmy Hat

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 09:23 AM

Thankyoo!! I look forward to reading your how to that explains it once and for all!! :)
Trawling through threads to find info is just confusing, impossible to pick out the info you need, maybe I'm just reading bad threads but it's all beyond me atm :P I'll have another search on here but the search feature's *rubbish*...

#5 Bungle

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 03:30 PM

theres a bit i have done in my Dolly the camper topic

#6 dave21478

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 07:23 PM

Have a look here...
http://www.rickwrenc...ollarpaint.html

then google "50 dollar paint job" - there are dozens of guides out there.

#7 1984mini25

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 06:09 PM

Oh yes and how might I go about getting a metallic or flip finish to the paint?


I personally wouldn’t bother roller painting with metallics, I know from personal experience and wouldn’t do it again. I’m not saying it’s imposable, but it’s a lot harder to get a decent finish because of the metallic.

It doesn’t cover as well either, because once thinned, which you have to do if you stand a chance of rollering it; it becomes more of a colour wash with glitter in. so normally with a solid colour it might take 3 coats (24hours between for drying time) to get a base colour were as it will take more like 5 or 6 to get the same with metallic.

And unlike solid colours were if you get a run you can flat it out and go over it without it showing through, you can’t with the metallic as if you only sand the run back and paint over that area it will show up lighter than the surrounding area, so the hole panel has to be sanded back and re-done.


I have however had more susses with a portable hvlp earlex spray station (aout £80), and because it sprays a thinner layer of paint onto the panel, the drying times are reduced. The front end I was priming over the summer tended to dry after about 30min ready for another coat.

Edited by 1984mini25, 23 September 2008 - 06:17 PM.


#8 Jet_black

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 10:06 PM

Why can't you use low odour type white spirits?

#9 MiniMonty

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 02:38 PM

Where is Retro_10's original "how to" ?
I remember it being very thorough and a good read.
Would like to read again and maybe have a go this Autumn.

Best wishes
Monty

#10 Minipool

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Posted 27 September 2010 - 05:43 PM

would love to see 1 of these guides links plz :- got my lime green paint and rolls ect today will be doin my mini this way.

random goole FTW lol

think this is it
http://www.theminifo...x...=29632&st=0

Edited by Minipool, 27 September 2010 - 05:46 PM.


#11 Bungle

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Posted 27 September 2010 - 06:08 PM

i stuck a topic in the links section :-

#12 Minipool

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Posted 29 September 2010 - 06:28 AM

i stuck a topic in the links section :lol:



ty mate >_< by the way anyone as a above post said why no low odour thinners

Edited by Minipool, 29 September 2010 - 06:30 AM.


#13 willgluck

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 04:36 AM

I did my 91chev truck with roller pa and it came out fantastic.I shared this with my friends and they didn't believe at all but when they saw my truck they shocked that with a roller we can get a great shine and finishing.

Auto glass

Edited by willgluck, 08 November 2011 - 04:36 AM.





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