Fitting a grp front end
Started by
Alan Carruthers
, May 22 2005 05:03 PM
10 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 22 May 2005 - 05:03 PM
Just wondering if anyone had any ideas on how you go about fitting a grp/cf front end. Would be looking to get a curley item - dont know if its the sort of thing you can do yourself or whether you need a bodyshop? I live in bucks - an idea of costs would also be dead helpful!
Al
Al
#2
Posted 22 May 2005 - 05:27 PM
Its not too hard. The best way to do it is get one of those really thin grinder cutting discs and make a cut down the front edges of the A-panel seams, doing it this way leaves it nice and neat and tight. I used a hacksaw blade and slid it in between the scuttle and top of the wing and cut the spot welds so I didnt butcher the scuttle. It took a while to do, but was worth it in the end. Then cut along the top of the inner wing under the wing gutter with the grinder again, keep it tight into the top edge of the inner wing for a neat finnish.
I take it you'll be cutting the inner wings out too? If so, make a horizontal cut down the inner wing whaere the seam is for the triangular bit on the bulkhead cross member.
Put the brace bars on, they may need a bit of jiggling to get them right, but try and get them even on both sides.
To attach the front, you can buy special hinges from mini spares or go to your local hardware shop and get some from there. Theses obviously go on the front of the subframe and bottom of the front end where you would normaly bolt the front panel up. Attach the wings to the A-panels by welding a smal plate to the rear edge of the A-panel and use Dzus fasteners to attach together.
Most people use a trailor style plug and socket for the electrics. Remember to put it up out of the way and some were it wont get too wet.
I take it you'll be cutting the inner wings out too? If so, make a horizontal cut down the inner wing whaere the seam is for the triangular bit on the bulkhead cross member.
Put the brace bars on, they may need a bit of jiggling to get them right, but try and get them even on both sides.
To attach the front, you can buy special hinges from mini spares or go to your local hardware shop and get some from there. Theses obviously go on the front of the subframe and bottom of the front end where you would normaly bolt the front panel up. Attach the wings to the A-panels by welding a smal plate to the rear edge of the A-panel and use Dzus fasteners to attach together.
Most people use a trailor style plug and socket for the electrics. Remember to put it up out of the way and some were it wont get too wet.
Attached Files
#3
Posted 26 May 2005 - 05:30 PM
Mate your're an absolute hero thanks alot
Al
Al
#4
Posted 26 May 2005 - 08:21 PM
Can this be made sticky (no comments!), or put in FAQ?!
#5
Posted 26 May 2005 - 08:33 PM
Also please note. that these may not fit exact and most moulds require work and trimming to fit well.
#6
Posted 26 May 2005 - 08:43 PM
Ooooooooh, hadnt thought of the trailer sockets :grin:
I was gonna have about 25 wires with plugs for each
As fo fit, mine is awful. But with a few plates to hold it out, I hope it'll go alright!
I was gonna have about 25 wires with plugs for each
As fo fit, mine is awful. But with a few plates to hold it out, I hope it'll go alright!
#7
Posted 27 May 2005 - 06:43 AM
When you make the cut in the wing down the "A" panel , its best to leave about an inch (25mm) as a lip to mount the deutz fasteners , triming of the new front end is needed to get anything like a nice fit .
#8
Posted 27 May 2005 - 01:45 PM
I used my original steel front, thats why I cut it tight into the seam. GRP fronts are always a C**p fit and unlike steel, you cant bend and tweak them into the shape you want without them springing back to their original shape.
#9
Posted 27 May 2005 - 06:05 PM
Hi
I may be wrong but i thought you had to solid mount the front subframe before you start cutting, thats what i read but havent started mine yet.
I may be wrong but i thought you had to solid mount the front subframe before you start cutting, thats what i read but havent started mine yet.
#10
Posted 27 May 2005 - 10:33 PM
i solid mounted mine as i'd heard it was necassary. i was doing it anyway though to be honest as i solid mounted the floor when i turbo'd it.
not sure exactly how much difference it made handling wise on there own as i did hi-lo's, spax adjustables, steering column bushes and tie bars all at the same time while they were all easy to get at. well pleased with the end result though
not sure exactly how much difference it made handling wise on there own as i did hi-lo's, spax adjustables, steering column bushes and tie bars all at the same time while they were all easy to get at. well pleased with the end result though
#11
Posted 28 May 2005 - 05:44 AM
I would recomend solid mounting any mini as standard IMO. Also don't forget that if you cut the front off your car, you will need to fit brace bars, and be aware that not all MOT testers like the idea of having a front end that can be taken completely off.
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