
MegaJolt Map sensor kit build up
#1
Posted 09 August 2007 - 12:58 AM
so as and when i can be bothereed to sit and sort the photo's out i will add a bit of narrative and some funky photo's.
#3
Posted 09 August 2007 - 05:29 AM
#4
Posted 12 August 2007 - 03:08 AM









#5
Posted 12 August 2007 - 08:16 AM
I'd recommend the kit as it's so well put together a trained monkey could assemble it. I can safely say that 'because I'm an untrained monkey 'n I managed - least I think I did, waiting on a usb adapter to fire it up.
I can add a few snaps of my homespun sensor bits to throw a few ideas up for anyone who's interested.
#6
Posted 12 August 2007 - 09:35 AM
Just be careful on the chipset of the USB adaptor, it doesn't like some of them, you need to have a look on the autolabs website, there's quite a long thread about it.waiting on a usb adapter to fire it up.
Alan,...
EDIT Website is http://www.autosportlabs.net
Edited by Phaeton, 12 August 2007 - 05:24 PM.
#7
Posted 12 August 2007 - 09:49 AM
1)what is the price of this kit? and...
2)will it work with my c16se?
cheers
#8
Posted 12 August 2007 - 10:03 AM
I may have to read that, I'd probably of assumed I'd toasted or zapped the chips

I just bought a cheapy off Ebay. hope there's no risk of zapping the 'jolt through it?
AD, Autosport Labs have a huge forum/site on Megajolt.
Basically it's a fully programmable controller that lets you use Ford Edis ignition on any engine you can fix the Ford timing wheel (36-1 teeth) and sensor to.
Ideal for any non injection lump.
#9
Posted 12 August 2007 - 10:07 AM
Hope to have mine up and running for just under £100 all in. Shouldn't cost over £250 for an A series even if you bought everything off the shelf. It's just the trigger you'd have to sort differently.
#10
Posted 12 August 2007 - 04:17 PM

connected to 9v dc battery for testing

Laptop on and working well chuffed
now to start the wiring lom, not sure where to start yet though lol
#11
Posted 12 August 2007 - 07:13 PM

here is what i started with. I managed to get this for a bargain on ebay with a hell of a lot of loom aswell.

This is what i have ended up wuth after stripping it down

here is all the xtra carp i was left with. will keep it for now just in case i need to lengthen any wires at all
#12
Posted 12 August 2007 - 10:08 PM

Coil pack:

Edis Coil pack mounted on a couple of doody ally brackets as it's getting rather full under my bonnet. Front one is on the front steady bar bolt hole (no steady bar being used so it was going spare) rear one just slots over the oil separator. Good air circulation, high enough to stay dry (I hope) and nice and accessible.
Trigger wheel and crank sensor

Turned down crank damper with a 5 1/8" triggerwheels.com erm, trigger wheel

I'm quite chuffed that it's within 25 grammes of what it was before I stuck it on a lathe - the wheel is 5mm thick but I took about 6mm off the pulley to compensate for the teeth. Luckily the missing tooth is pretty close to where a balancing drilling was in the damper but I still measured up the holes I machined off and added some afterwards in an attempt to not disturb things too much. The new holes aren't big, you can't see them because they're behind the wheel. The damper counter weight is cast iron 'n not mild steel as I think I'd read somewhere. A golden shower (of sparks!) before I turned the cutting speed down told me


Those screws are 5mm x16mm which have gone in very well for length, no sign of breaking through the other side, but you'll notice you wouldn't want the heads any bigger at all! 4mm might be a safer bet.
Quick tip: even if you pay someone to machine a pulley for you get them to score a circle as a centre line for the screw holes on the tooth wheel at the very least (much easier with a lathe). You'll probably want to fix the wheel on yourself once you've worked out where the sensor is going and the only way you'll get the screw holes to line up is to drill the trigger wheel and damper together.
The shiny thing at the bottom is the mounting for the crank sensor, two bits of 20mm bar (one round, one square) joined together with a bit of 8mm threaded rod. The sensor is somewhere between 13 and 14mm in diameter just to be awkward when you're making a hole for it. Another 8mm thick slice of aluminium is soldered on top to get the right clearance off the trigger wheel.
Fitted to Lump

I think that's tidy by my standards


Edited by Ethel, 13 August 2007 - 05:30 PM.
#13
Posted 13 August 2007 - 01:20 PM
Sorry Boo!
#14
Posted 13 August 2007 - 02:08 PM
basically it replaces your distributor witha boc of electronics. it also uses ford igniotion parts to sense the crank position and then fir the coil which produces the spark.
have a read of the FAQ that mini mad me has done.
#15
Posted 13 August 2007 - 02:11 PM

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