29 replies to this topic

[mineeeeee]

Dont really understand the question but just to say the VOLTAGE to your dash is always
fluctuating but the dash will smooth this out for its own use and will supply a constant VOLTAGE to the sensors
The only way this would change is if the dash goes faulty or your alternator generated a voltage
outside the spec of the dash,in which case everything would be fried.

[geo]

I mean the current, amps, if im putting resistors on to adjust it is there any way this will need readjusting in the future.

Thanks

[mineeeeee]

dont see why
by putting resisters across your sender you are calibrating it to suit the dash so i
imagine after some trial and error to get it steady and accurate that will be it in the same way you dont need to keep
adjusting the original mini setup

[geo]

Another question where can i get a temp gauge that will not need a voltage stabiliser. I have searched but cant find any info.

Thanks

[Jupitus]

Want a voltage stabiliser? I made a few up... 3 wires and a little box, one wire is earthed, next is main 12v variable feed and it outputs at 10v steady... pm me if you do need one.

[geo]

I dont actually have a temp gauge yet i was looking at the smiths gauges but they need a voltage stabiliser. If anyone knows of a gauge that can be used but will not need a voltage stabiliser this would be easier, otherwise i'll get back to you Jupitus.

Thanks

[dklawson]

I missed this entire thread. Sorry. The above explanations are correct regarding the stabilizer but I'll elaborate and be as succinct as possible.

The Smiths stabilizer is really a mechanical voltage regulator. It delivers an "average" of 10V to the gauges it is connected to. As mentioned previously, this isolates the gauges from the fluctuations that occur as the charging system allows the car's operating voltage to fluctuate.

Almost ALL aftermarket gauges have a built in voltage regulator and do not require the Smiths stabilizer. Aftermarket gauges should be connected to a switched +12V supply... one that is off when the ignition switch is turned off.

The sending units for gauges have to be matched to what the gauge was designed for. In the case of the fuel gauge, there are several options (for cars other than the Mini). The typical Mini fuel gauge and sending unit operate between about 240 Ohms (empty) and 30 Ohms (full). You don't need to run your tank dry to confirm this and/or the ability of the gauge and sender to work together. With the gauge connected you can switch on the ignition and use a bent wire through the tank filler neck to push the float all the way down and lift it all the way up. IF you bought a gauge that normally operates between 90 Ohms (empty) and 0 Ohms (full), the parallel resistor mentioned in a previous post will "narrow" the range of the sending unit to match the gauge. There is math involved to explain why this works and how to calculate the exact value you need... suffice it to say that you can narrow a sending unit's output range to match the gauge input... but you can't widen or reverse the direction of a sending unit's output.

If you want to add a Smiths gauge you'll need a voltage stabilizer or a 10V voltage regulator to operate it. There are no exceptions. If you operate a Smiths gauge without the stabilizer it will run at full system voltage (approaching 14V), so it will read as much as 40% high and it will burn out sooner. Take Jupitus up on his offer or download my PDF on the stabilizer and make your own. There are also sellers on eBay who make solid-state stabilizers for British cars.
http://home.mindspri...eStabilizer.pdf

[Ethel]

The Acewell will run on any voltage over 5 volts, within reason! Voltage regulators are very common in modern electronic devices - by over supplying the voltage you can cut out fluctuations to provide a steady supply to your circuit. Trailtech instruments don't offer a fuel gauge but do offer temp and pressure gauges in one installation with matched sensors included in the kit. You may prefer the style of the Acewell unit though.

[geo]

Ok thats cleared everything up for me thanks very much indeed. I have fitted my acewell dash today and all is well as i dont have a gauge yet for temp i'll see what comes up first but suspect i will take Jupitus up on his offer.

Again Many thanks

George

[mini93]

when i put mu acewell, i used a smiths gauge i then put 2 indicator warning lights, oil pressure, charge and full beam ones around it. you wont need to do this if yours is a moddle with the lights around the outside

[jayare]

You could use a capillary temperature gauge which doesn't use an electrical signal to sense the temperature - it uses a capillary tube which transfers heat directly to the gauge. They are supposed to be much more accurate than older electrical gauges. Minispares do this Smiths one: http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=33772

JR

[geo]

Ive had my ace3150 fitted for about 2 weeks now andthe rpms seem to be reading randomly. It did work correctly before but doesnt now. Does any one know what could course this or should i contact the acewell people for a replacment.

Thanks

[Ethel]

Loose sensor lead or power supply and earth to the Acewell? How did you wire up the rev sensing wire?

[geo]

Ive checked all of that and its wired to the black and white cable that was connected to the stndard tachometre

Thanks

[Ethel]

I've not actually played with the acewell, but reading the blurb on their site it should work with almost any ignition setup. Just check the fitting instructions to make sure there aren't any settings or different sensor inputs for different systems. Suppose it could be interference if the pick up is very sensitive - try re routing the wire to the coil, use shielded cable if you have any ( old microphone or headphones etc).