
Subframe Bolt
#1
Posted 17 April 2005 - 10:37 AM
#2
Posted 17 April 2005 - 10:43 AM
Leonard
#3
Posted 17 April 2005 - 10:47 AM
then cut a small hole where the nut should be remove the old nut and bolt and weld a new plate back in with a new nut welded on to it , this means its all hiden out of sight when the subframes back on :smartass:
never tryed this just trying to be a smartass

#4
Posted 17 April 2005 - 11:00 AM
My car has a circular hole in the rear of each sill with a plug in it, so that next time it shouldn't be such a problem! :grin:
Oh, make sure to fully waxoil it again afterwards, otherwise your sill will rot like a banana in a bog.
Dave
#5
Posted 17 April 2005 - 11:04 AM
#6
Posted 17 April 2005 - 11:14 AM
Take off the trailing arm where the problem is and remove the subframe pin. Then you can get the frame out and work on the trunnion on it's own which is a lot easier. With the frame off you can always cut the trunnion, they are cheap as chips
Your car should not pass an MOT if you go cutting holes in sills around subframe mountings and not seam welding a plate back in afterwards (like if you leave a plug there instead), it's too close to the suspension mountings and it's the sill!
You should be able to get to it from inside the pocket Jammy, have another look.
#7
Posted 17 April 2005 - 11:28 AM
#8
Posted 17 April 2005 - 11:41 AM
Well, it's passed the last three years and the sills have come under some close scrutiny... oh well...
#9
Posted 17 April 2005 - 11:49 AM
#10
Posted 17 April 2005 - 01:38 PM
#11
Posted 17 April 2005 - 02:47 PM

The trunnion is the cast lump of metal which holds the subframe to the car. It's not part of the subframe, it's seperate. Once you remove the radius arm there is a large nut behind it which holds the trunion to the subframe. Remove the nut and the support pin will pull out of the side of the subframe and you will be able to get it off the car with the trunnion still attached so that you can attack that on it's own. Very much easier, and as I said you can always cut the trunnion if you need to.
What I said about getting to it through the pocket was just to access the nut inside the heel board. Sorry if I caused confusion. Remember you don't need to be able to see the nut to get to it, just feel it or get a socket to it.
Also if you decide to cut the trunnion and bolt off, you can poke a magnet on a stick into the pocket to pull the dead nut out.
No offence meant about MOTs, we all know that they are a bit of a lottery and what one centre will pass another would just laugh at. I just meant that if the rules are followed to the letter then a car with lumps cut out of the sill shouldn't pass unless other strengthening is fitted, whether it's a neat round hole or just rotten. There shouldn't really be advise given on here which will make a car less legal or might get someone into bother, it's in the rules.
#12
Posted 17 April 2005 - 02:52 PM
#13
Posted 17 April 2005 - 02:57 PM
Our inspections over here aren't as tough as your MOTs. Would the plate idea proposed by Bungle not work if you seam welded the plate all around as Dan suggested? I'd think you'd want it seam welded all around anyway for strength... this is a load bearing point. I'd also think you'd want to put an equal thickness plate on the other side just as a spacer so you don't introduce alignment (crabbing) problems. Still... this sounds like a more cosemetically appealing idea than cutting open companion boxes and sills.
Could this be done or would it introduce more MOT issues?
#14
Posted 17 April 2005 - 03:01 PM
Ok, so maybe your car is a different age to the one I was thinking of. There is a closing plate inside the companion bin to stop things falling insde the sill. It's not part of the inner sill and doesn't do much (and as Blue said, no-one can see it any way) Sometimes the plate has a hole in the middle and sometimes it doesn't. I'll go and check my own car in a bit to check on it.
#15
Posted 17 April 2005 - 03:25 PM
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