37 replies to this topic

[dklawson]

I was unaware that there is a difference in the cable (square) size. As mentioned in a post above, if there is an issue with the cable being the wrong size, you should be able to undo the single 1/4-20 hex head bolt securing the speedo cable output flange to the gearbox and extract it along with the drive gear... then swap for the correct size. I find it easier to use this method when fitting the bottom end of a speedo cable (at least on the early cars like mine). With the flange off the gearbox it's much easier to screw the cable onto the male part and make sure it's all the way down.

The jumping needle you're still experiencing can be from two or three things. The most common is that you've got a stick-slip situation possibly due to a dry cable or one that's kinked. Sharp bends are to be avoided and if you haven't lubed the cable you may want to take the time to do it as it will only get worse. If you find the vinyl jacket of the outer speedo cable sheath is damaged, just replace the cable. It's not worth trying to fix a damaged one that probably has rust inside.

I also run a bicycle computer/speedo on my car as the stock instrument is calibrated in KPH and I don't like trusting my in-head conversions. I have the early yoke-type inner driveshaft joints and I mounted the magnet inside one of the u-joint bearing cups. I fabricated a mounting bracket for the pickup and bolted it to the gearbox. I do have a photo of the components... but for the moment I'm unable to upload it. Last week my PC died and the new one runs Vista. I'm unable to get my FTP program to upload through the new environment regardless of the firewall settings. Sorry.

EDIT: Well... don't I feel stupid?! After spending some time screwing around with firewall settings and surfing for a new FTP program I discovered that the real answer was... I was out of storage space.

Attached Files

•  SigmaBC800_Pickup.jpg   57.81K   4 downloads

Edited by dklawson, 11 June 2007 - 04:17 AM.

[Russ528]

Cheers DK.

I did put a bit of oil on the new cable before I fitted it, and also took care so as not to have any sharp bends in the cable.

Strange, as once i'd removed the old cable (and found it to be ok) I tested it in the dials using a drill, and it worked.

The new one also got tested prior to fitting (having read on here about the 2 different cable types not being interchangable) and that worked fine as well......no different from the old one, hence I proceeded to fit it.

Something which did cross my mind.

What with the original 1275 engine begin hoiked out and replaced by a 998, I would imagine the clocks are the original ones.....calibrated for the 1275 engine.

Which I guess would mean the readings are all poop as a result of being calibrated for the wrong final drive ratio.

Yes?

What a brain ache. I suppose I could just buy some 998cc dials off ebay, as they'd be calibrated for a 998 engine...which is what I have.

I guess there's a lot of people that have done a 998 to 1275 conversion....anyone want to swap dials with me!?

Edited by Russ528, 11 June 2007 - 07:18 AM.

[dklawson]

Final drive and speedo gearing is a topic that comes up a lot so you should use the search feature here to look for previous threads. There were not a lot of different gearing combinations to reach the U.S. so I'm afraid I can't comment further.

[Russ528]

Yeah, I have mate - I'm searched out

[Gazman]

Any chance of pics of the cable you took off? Both ends?

[Russ528]

look here Gazman...

[Gazman]

So does the old and the new fit in the back of the dials in the same way and secure there?

If so any chance I can nab it from you or are you now in need of it again?

[Russ528]

Both new & old fit, but i'm going to hang onto the cable for a little bit until I've sorted my dials issues mate. Once I've solved mine, if I don't need it, then you're welcome to it fella.