help deactivating my alarm plz?
#1
Posted 30 April 2007 - 08:52 PM
started no problem for about six months as i still have the 101150 ecu, so i guess they got the ecu re flashed so it would work without the immoblisher relay/module.
I then wanted security back so i fitted a toad alarm system which worked fine for about 3 month, until a few days ago when i got bumped in the boot when my car was parked (the c1cks neva left there detail, no what car it was and the first 2 letters of the reg so if i eva c them again) n now the car wont start, we've been through everything step by step eliminating things and its down to the immobilser just wont switch off!
Ive heard the earth for the starter is through the ecu but with it having a aftermarket alarm i cant c it been this, the ignitions got power, the starter when shorted turns the car, the fuses are all fine. But it wont fire or turn over using the ignition, what do u guys recon i shud try?
#2
Posted 30 April 2007 - 09:41 PM
Edit**
The key switch supplies a live to the relay pack. If the original alarm ECU or router box has been removed then the ground for the starter relay will be connected to ground directly some where your imobiliser may have been wired to interupt this. This is the white red wire on the small connector on the relay pack and the white pink wire at the alarm ECU connector,be carefull and dont get confused, there are two white pink wires at the relay pack, and the white red and white pink wires swap through the body loom to engine loom connector.
Edited by Mini Sprocket, 30 April 2007 - 09:56 PM.
#3
Posted 01 May 2007 - 02:47 AM
#4
Posted 03 May 2007 - 11:43 AM
also whats the black and green rubber sorta pepet thing do on the drivers side of the engine bay at the back, its wired into the old alarm?
Edited by Scarface, 03 May 2007 - 11:45 AM.
#5
Posted 03 May 2007 - 11:58 AM
#6
Posted 03 May 2007 - 02:41 PM
#7
Posted 03 May 2007 - 04:29 PM
Which white red wire are we talking about, The white red on the body loom or the white red on the engine loom??
when you turn the ignition switch to IGN position where the orange and red lights come on on the dash (not turning it over) can you hear the fuel pump run for about 10 seconds?
Personaly i think its your imobiliser, as the starter wiring is not that complicated, live feed from the key switch to the relaypack.
My car is running without the alarm imobiliser box with the plug disconnected, all i did was ground the white pink wire on the body side of the loom.
If its not the imobiliser, then its a broken wire, loose connection or a faulty key switch. I think you should get hold of a wiring diagram and follow it through.
I'll have a go at trying to get the diagrams I have posted up, but its going to be difficult as they are all copy protected on the disc I have. The other problem is that it is not specific to the pre 97 post 95 SPi, but the post 97 SPi ( dont say a word, They do exist.) It is closer than any of the pre 95 diagrams though.
Cant understand how a slight rear end bump could cause this. Its going to be something simple.
Oh and its not an Auto is it?
#8
Posted 03 May 2007 - 04:31 PM
also whats the black and green rubber sorta pepet thing do on the drivers side of the engine bay at the back, its wired into the old alarm?
That is the communication link for the Facory fit Alarm/imobiliser, now redundant on your car.
#9
Posted 03 May 2007 - 05:36 PM
Erm would a faulty key switch stop the car from firing like i said ive had it turning over just not firing but this was through hotwiring the starter. I have a haynes manual so ill work through that wiring diagram i was just wondering weather anything was standing out to check just to save abit of time. Is it as simple as just checking he continuity at each end of the wire, or do i have to ispect each wire indavidually?
also i have alot of white, brown and white and red wires joined from 3-1 etc will this be to do with the removal of the old alarm?
sorry for the long post and thanks for the guidance
Edited by Scarface, 03 May 2007 - 05:43 PM.
#10
Posted 03 May 2007 - 09:07 PM
Have a read through that. It describes how the relay pack and ECU control the various bits, you can then work out the areas to look. Id be looking at the main battery supplies ( the big black wire front to back) the starter motor connection,and the power distribution wires from the starter to the rest of the engine and body loom.
Dont over look the ground wires either, the one for the ECU is very important, the one in the boot off the battery
#11
Posted 04 May 2007 - 04:41 PM
#12
Posted 07 May 2007 - 06:23 PM
and only one switch is moving across at the IGN postion, the white pink wire has power and we tried moving them across manually but that did nothing, can u just get the ecu tested without the car?
#13
Posted 07 May 2007 - 06:59 PM
The fuel pump and manifold heater relays are not energised untill the engine starts to rotate on the starter.
#14
Posted 07 May 2007 - 10:13 PM
thanks again for all ur help its helped me gain alot more understanding of my systems electrics and learned how easy the wiring diagrams are to follow.
A quick thing ive noticed is the white pink wire that goes from the old alarm plug to the ecu (ground i think) is wired to a black wire and its getting its ground from there instead, can i either run it direct to the body or wire my imobilser across this rather than the white red ignition, would it have any benifets?
Edited by Scarface, 08 May 2007 - 03:43 PM.
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