Clutch Problems
#16
Posted 15 December 2004 - 10:33 PM
Also, without meaning to have a go at anyone, as has been sort of said extending the slave push rod is a total bodge. There is no need to do this on a road car if the system is in good condition. Extending the rod simply hides the wear that needs correcting and encourages wear in other parts. I know that troublesome clutches are a right pain to sort out and deeply annoying, it took weeks to get mine right.
#17
Posted 15 December 2004 - 10:47 PM
i agree with you dan on this point (says the man that bodged his push rod)Hey now that's a point, I hadn't thought of it because you said all the parts are new but how is the release arm? The ball on the end of the arm is prone to wear fairly quickly which has a similar effect to this. Also if you get a new release arm get a genuine one as there is another make out there which is at the wrong offset angle and so it won't release properly (that is on the pre-verto clutch at least).
Also, without meaning to have a go at anyone, as has been sort of said extending the slave push rod is a total bodge. There is no need to do this on a road car if the system is in good condition. Extending the rod simply hides the wear that needs correcting and encourages wear in other parts. I know that troublesome clutches are a right pain to sort out and deeply annoying, it took weeks to get mine right.
if everything is working correcrtlly then there is no need to lengthen the push rod, can we have a little more enlightenment on the lever being out of allignment and
can someone put up a picture as this is something i might of missed hense went to the lengthening method (bodge)The ball on the end of the arm is prone to wear fairly quickly
#18
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:11 PM
Siggy
#19
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:13 PM
Yes I removed the spring and the clutch is a pre-verto recon unit
if that is what you mean
Regards
David
#20
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:16 PM
Regards
David
#21
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:20 PM
#22
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:28 PM
is there anyway of checking this out or have these people used a clutch master cylinder as a brake master cylinder, it has been earlier type cars which i have seen this on
:wales:
#23
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:33 PM
#24
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:41 PM
Attached Files
#25
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:42 PM
Attached Files
#26
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:44 PM
The dodgy clutch arms are a non genuine part and are somewhat straighter than the genuine one. That is to say the angle from the long arm through the pivot to the centre of the ball is less pronounced than on the genuine article. It is hard to see unless you have both versions to hand. The non genuine item wears quicker as well. Technically this straighter arm shouldn't make a difference as the adjustment of the return stop will correct for it, but it seems to make a difference to the arc the pushrod moves through which puts the biting point just beyond the range of adjustment. As I said in theory it won't make much of a difference but having dealt with one of these arms myself and fixed the problem I know how it can change things. The travel of the clutch is really very small and so it doesn't take much to screw it up.
Can't offer any more options myself though NoMiniNoLife, you seem to have done everything I would have done and if it isn't working then all I can think of is that you must have missed something. When you do find out what it is it'll probably be obvious. Good luck.
I was told that the only external difference between the plastic reservoir clutch and single line brake masters was the size of the base plate (when I was considering similar possibilities). I know you could tell the difference by the cut out in the bean tin masters but I don't think it applies to the new ones. I would be interested to know though if you find out for sure.
#27
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:44 PM
#28
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:46 PM
#29
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:48 PM
Fingers crossed
#30
Posted 15 December 2004 - 11:49 PM
:wales:
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