I have also had a reply to a message I sent minimine via eBay...
Hi, thanks for getting in touch and sorry to hear that you are having trouble with this. I will try to address all of your issues separately. We sell 100`s of these kits a year through our various outlets and through our trade customers worldwide and have never had any reports of issues. We also fit these in our workshop and have never had any problems with the bearings we have however had issues with worn rear hubs and worn/ damaged rear shafts making it appear that the bearing is at fault. As a company we are well aware of the various discussions on the forums and respect peoples opinions but we are also confident in our items that we sell.
Firstly i would check that the bearing supplied is the same as the picture and all the parts are there, then i would make sure that the bearings are fitted correctly as the bearings have an in built spacer and make sure this is correct. I would then also make sure they are all the way into the hub and no parts of the old bearing are present. I would then torque the hut nut and washer up to the manufacturers specification.
We disagree with your statement "GHK 1548/kit002 are cheap Chinese rubbish, aren’t fit for purpose and are potentially unsafe to use", these are not Genuine Rover or Timkin bearings we are selling and the price/ description reflects this, but these are a reproduction version as sold by nearly all Classic mini companies.
You have also stated that "the eBay listing is for a wheel bearing kit GHK 1352, which doesn’t match the GHK 1548/kit002 item number on the bearing I’ve been sent." The simple answer to that is the part has been superseded on a number of occasions and previous part numbers include GHK1352, GHK1141, ABK002, GHK1548 and also AWB910.
So according to them the only possible reason why when I come to tighten the hub nut the hub/bearings seize solid is because of a worn hub? Surely if the hub was worn the bearings would be too lose in the hub?
But then I also only replaced the rear wheel bearing because the wheel cylinder seized (witch also arrived in a brown unbranded box) causing the rear brake to bind/heat up the rear drum and although the original bearing might have be ok to still use I didn't want to risk it, hence changing it.