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21 page guide telling you how to prep and re-spray


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#46 Hix

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 02:14 PM

Hi, 

Thanks for your efforts with this guide. I've taken the liberty of converting it to a pdf format with bookmarks, so you can navigate through it more easily. Hope that is ok?

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#47 Dgrove1

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Posted 02 February 2014 - 10:38 PM

Absolutely brilliant! Thanks a lot!



#48 mattkjsmith

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 04:04 PM

Wish I had this a few years back!

#49 minidini

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Posted 30 July 2014 - 01:55 PM

Here is the guide..

For some reason it has dissapeared from above..

 

Much love to you :)



#50 kmdamurphy419

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 02:10 PM

Hi Shaz,

 

To echo others; great guide, thanks very much. I have grey primed my entire car and have a smooth finish, but as I have not done this before (and am being fairly realistic regarding my ability and on my budget etc) what type of paint do you recommend? and can you recommend any brands of paint that will give a nice metallic dark grey finish?

 

Thanks,

 

Aaron


Edited by kmdamurphy419, 13 April 2015 - 06:36 PM.


#51 Harvey01

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 01:14 PM

Really useful tips thanks



#52 The Pot Wash

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Posted 15 January 2016 - 06:13 PM

Thank you for all your time in sorting out this post. It takes alot of effort and time to write such an in depth post..

It would be nice if members would actually read the whole post before asking a question which you have already taken so much of your own time to cover in this post. 

 

PLEASE READ THE THREAD BEFORE ASKING QUESTIONS. 

 

 

Again thank you..

 

All the best

Dan


Edited by The Pot Wash, 15 January 2016 - 06:18 PM.


#53 WillCarter

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Posted 11 November 2017 - 04:40 PM

Thank you! Got a few small rust bubbles to deal with, will let you know how I get on!

#54 andy597

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Posted 21 August 2018 - 12:17 PM

Hello. Im brand new here, so please be gentle. In honesty I only signed up because of shaz coopers most helpful post.

 

I've read the guide 100 times, watched countless youtube videos and read more forum posts from other inferior car's than I care to mentioned. The result,  absolute confusion, so i've tried to make myself a step by step.  

​Can anybody tell me if I have these steps accurate?  I'm determined to give this a go.

​Also, I don't understand the different paint types,  2K is going to kill me so is Cellulose my only home option?  On these Americanised videos they talk about epoxy primer - is this the same as etching primer?  And they also talk about Urethane paint, is this the same as Cellulose?

 

Thanks so much in advance.

 

 

 

 

Body
1. Strip metal of paint
2. Clean metal with panel wipe/por 15 cleaner degreaser marine clean
3. Condition metal with POR 15 Metal Ready
4. Apply dusting coat of black guide coat paint
5. Block sand in crosshatch pattern with 80 grit and long board to reveal bumps-guide coat indicates low spots
6. Clean metal with panel wipe to provide clean working surface
7. Remove visible dents with hammers/dollies and apply body filler/medium stopper to low areas
8. Light coat of sanding primer applied over the filler to seal.
9. Check for imperfection or pinholes in the filler after drying.
10. Fill those will cellulose putty or stopper (Top Stop)
11. Block Sand with 80 grit in crosshatch pattern and long board
12. Panel Wipe
 
13. Repeat steps 4 to 12 until all sanding marks are worked out using 80, 120, 180, 220, 320
 
14. Apply 2 coats of non sanding metal Etching primer - horizontally then vertically for full coverage
15. Sand with 320 grit paper to key surface
16. Panel wipe
17. Apply 3 coats of working primer
18. Panel wipe
19. Apply dusting of black guide coat
20. Sand back the guide coat with 320 grit in crosshatch pattern
21. Repeat 18 to 20 with 320,400,600 grit
22.  Repeat 18 to 20 with 320,400,600 grit WET SANDING
23. Panel Wipe
24. Apply 3 coats of base paint
25. Wet Sand with 600 grit and 6 inch block, cut off tops, nibs, fine debris
26. panel wipe / tack rag
 
27. 3 coats of lacquer leave to cure
28. Wet Sand with 1000, 1500 and then 2000 grit with 6 inch block, until matt all over
29. If cut through lacquer, ie paint on wipe, repeat lacquer stage
30. Machine polish using wool then foam pads until uber shiney
 
Underside / Wheel Arches etc.
1. Strip to bare metal
2. Clean metal with panel wipe/por 15 cleaner degreaser marine clean
3. Condition metal with POR 15 Metal Ready
4. Paint with POR 15 chassis protection
5. 2 coats of Etch Primer
​6. Key surface with 80 grit
7. 3 coats of Working Primer
8. Stoneguard - Gravitex or Shutz
9. Paint top coat 3 coats
9. Clear Waxoyl to finish


#55 Vanman20

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Posted 05 September 2020 - 06:02 PM


Hello. Im brand new here, so please be gentle. In honesty I only signed up because of shaz coopers most helpful post.

I've read the guide 100 times, watched countless youtube videos and read more forum posts from other inferior car's than I care to mentioned. The result, absolute confusion, so i've tried to make myself a step by step.
​Can anybody tell me if I have these steps accurate? I'm determined to give this a go.
​Also, I don't understand the different paint types, 2K is going to kill me so is Cellulose my only home option? On these Americanised videos they talk about epoxy primer - is this the same as etching primer? And they also talk about Urethane paint, is this the same as Cellulose?

Thanks so much in advance.




Body
1. Strip metal of paint
2. Clean metal with panel wipe/por 15 cleaner degreaser marine clean
3. Condition metal with POR 15 Metal Ready
4. Apply dusting coat of black guide coat paint
5. Block sand in crosshatch pattern with 80 grit and long board to reveal bumps-guide coat indicates low spots
6. Clean metal with panel wipe to provide clean working surface
7. Remove visible dents with hammers/dollies and apply body filler/medium stopper to low areas
8. Light coat of sanding primer applied over the filler to seal.
9. Check for imperfection or pinholes in the filler after drying.
10. Fill those will cellulose putty or stopper (Top Stop)
11. Block Sand with 80 grit in crosshatch pattern and long board
12. Panel Wipe

13. Repeat steps 4 to 12 until all sanding marks are worked out using 80, 120, 180, 220, 320

14. Apply 2 coats of non sanding metal Etching primer - horizontally then vertically for full coverage
15. Sand with 320 grit paper to key surface
16. Panel wipe
17. Apply 3 coats of working primer
18. Panel wipe
19. Apply dusting of black guide coat
20. Sand back the guide coat with 320 grit in crosshatch pattern
21. Repeat 18 to 20 with 320,400,600 grit
22. Repeat 18 to 20 with 320,400,600 grit WET SANDING
23. Panel Wipe
24. Apply 3 coats of base paint
25. Wet Sand with 600 grit and 6 inch block, cut off tops, nibs, fine debris
26. panel wipe / tack rag

27. 3 coats of lacquer leave to cure
28. Wet Sand with 1000, 1500 and then 2000 grit with 6 inch block, until matt all over
29. If cut through lacquer, ie paint on wipe, repeat lacquer stage
30. Machine polish using wool then foam pads until uber shiney

Underside / Wheel Arches etc.
1. Strip to bare metal
2. Clean metal with panel wipe/por 15 cleaner degreaser marine clean
3. Condition metal with POR 15 Metal Ready
4. Paint with POR 15 chassis protection
5. 2 coats of Etch Primer
​6. Key surface with 80 grit
7. 3 coats of Working Primer
8. Stoneguard - Gravitex or Shutz
9. Paint top coat 3 coats
9. Clear Waxoyl to finish

You're over complicating it mate.
Here's a few pointers for you.
If you're bare metalling,degrease and apply a coat of epoxy to prevent flash rusting.If you don't want to do that you can do your filler repairs and then spray the epoxy.Depending on the brand of epoxy you can then go straight over with a 2k primer filler....see the tds.Otherwise you will have to key the epoxy first if it is outside the recoating window.
If you don't want to use epoxy,use etch but you don't sand it before overcoating it with primer,neither do you panel wipe it.Don't use etch and epoxy,1 or the other.Don't put filler over etch.
Do your filler repair with 80 grit on a block.You can use a guide coat to assist you.The dust type is good for this.Stop sanding just before you think it's done because you then need to go over it with 180 or 240 grit,again using a guide coat and a block to remove the 80 grit scratches.
As for the painting,you can denib your basecoat if you get bits in it but you must apply further coats before you clearcoat.DO NOT flat your last coat of base.give it a light tack ragging and then clear.DO NOT attemp to tack rag between coats of clear.
You really only need to panel wipe......to clean the panel before you start,before you prime and before you apply the 1st of the final colour coats,I try to avoid getting it on body filler.

Hope that helps and not confuses you more :)

Edited by Vanman20, 06 September 2020 - 06:31 AM.


#56 kenyon

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Posted 22 March 2022 - 02:50 PM

Hi Shaz,

The guide does not seem to be available anymore, can you re-post it please?

 

Thanks

 

Nige

 

Sorry found it above in PDF format thanks


Edited by kenyon, 22 March 2022 - 02:53 PM.





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