Edited by Aaron3, 24 April 2018 - 06:20 PM.
Is My Mini Too Slow?
#31
Posted 24 April 2018 - 06:19 PM
#32
Posted 24 April 2018 - 08:05 PM
#33
Posted 24 April 2018 - 09:33 PM
Just bring cylinders 1 & 4 to TDC, turn the crank back 6 degrees using the front pulley for a datum and set the distributor so that it is just sparking at the points. That is a good start, but once it is running nicely the timing can be 'tweaked' a bit until it is running at its best.
The vac advance can be tested by sucking on the pipe and oiling the bob-weights will ensure that the mechanical advance is working ok.
#34
Posted 24 April 2018 - 09:47 PM
Bit of a random one this, but is it the original engine that came with the car? Only reason I mention it is that my 25 that I owned in the mid 90s had been given an engine transplant with a 998cc engine from a Metro I believe. The engine/gearbox change meant that my speedo was roughly 25% under-reading. So when I was doing "30" I was actually driving at 40, and "60" was closer to 80mph. I always wondered why it was screaming at that speed.
Do you have a rev counter fitted? I am sure that if you do an internet search there's a calculation you can do regarding gearing and tyre sizes which will give you an accurate idea of your actual speed. Or borrow a Satnav.
Edited by MrBounce, 24 April 2018 - 09:48 PM.
#35
Posted 25 April 2018 - 06:45 AM
Bit of a random one this, but is it the original engine that came with the car? Only reason I mention it is that my 25 that I owned in the mid 90s had been given an engine transplant with a 998cc engine from a Metro I believe. The engine/gearbox change meant that my speedo was roughly 25% under-reading. So when I was doing "30" I was actually driving at 40, and "60" was closer to 80mph. I always wondered why it was screaming at that speed.
Do you have a rev counter fitted? I am sure that if you do an internet search there's a calculation you can do regarding gearing and tyre sizes which will give you an accurate idea of your actual speed. Or borrow a Satnav.
Well the engine number doesnt match the one in the log book so yeah its not the original engine.
I think the speedo is relatively accurate as I wasnt catching up with any trucks and in the past Ive driven past one of them watch your speed signs that tell you how fast youre going and it was the same as what I was doing
No rev counter
#36
Posted 25 April 2018 - 08:20 AM
How's your fuel consumption?
If it and performance and lower speeds are ok(ish) I too would be looking at ignition timing. It could also be as simple as a dirty air filter.
#37
Posted 25 April 2018 - 12:15 PM
How's your fuel consumption?
If it and performance and lower speeds are ok(ish) I too would be looking at ignition timing. It could also be as simple as a dirty air filter.
Fuel consumption Ive not really paid attention too.
Looking on my shell app Ive purchased about 58 litres across 3 fill ups and currently have about 2/3 of a tank remaning.. having covered about 300 miles
Hopefully it is timing, going to do the compression test later though
Air filters new, its just the standard one though not a k&n or pod filter of any sort
#38
Posted 26 April 2018 - 05:26 PM
Compression test results
1 = 130
2 = 135
3 = 125
4 = 140
#39
Posted 27 April 2018 - 12:34 PM
Ok so
Compression test results
1 = 130
2 = 135
3 = 125
4 = 140
What’s the engine number?
I’d be unhappy with that, all seem low. The difference between them is also unhealthy.
I refer back to my pointer earlier with valve issues
#40
Posted 27 April 2018 - 01:19 PM
It could be valve seats or ring/bore wear (or both).
The best way to check easily it to start it up and get it fully warm. Then set the tick-over at around 1100 rpm and remove the oil filler cap. If it is bores/rings ther will be smoke 'puffing' from the oil filler hole and it will be noticeable rather than just a small amount.
If that is the case the engine needs stripping, re-boring and nee pistons.
If it is valves just remove the head and fit new guides, possibly new valves, have the seats re-cut, lap in the valves and fit new stem oil seals. New valve springs would be wise too.
#41
Posted 27 April 2018 - 06:44 PM
Whats the engine number?Ok so
Compression test results
1 = 130
2 = 135
3 = 125
4 = 140
Id be unhappy with that, all seem low. The difference between them is also unhealthy.
I refer back to my pointer earlier with valve issues
99hd80 108529
I also now seem to have a very bad oil leak (not just a drip but a full blown puddle) under the car so something is very unhappy
#42
Posted 27 April 2018 - 06:47 PM
Check the gear shifter seal for leaks. Sometimes they can slip out of the seat. If it’s coming out from under the cam chain cover then it’s not so good.
Sounds like in general it needs some tlc from a time served mini mechanic...
#43
Posted 27 April 2018 - 07:50 PM
Id be very unhappy with those numbers... thats a high comp engine.
Check the gear shifter seal for leaks. Sometimes they can slip out of the seat. If its coming out from under the cam chain cover then its not so good.
Sounds like in general it needs some tlc from a time served mini mechanic...
What else can I find out from the engine number? Does it help identify what year the engine is from?
Ive got a new seal for the gear selectors so Sunday I might have a good poke about and find out where this leak is from.
Its been a long winter getting it back on the road after 19 years and I guess its reasonable for there to be problems develop now that its finally been driven again.
Any mini specialist in Norfolk?!
#44
Posted 27 April 2018 - 08:03 PM
My 850 will cruise happily around 50, at 55ish it loses interest. Im thinking some of its original 34 horses have escaped and a compression test would be wise. But again Im happy pottering around in it, enjoying a nice sunny day (occasionally!) than flying along A roads or motorways.
Good luck with the checks, let us know how you get on.
#45
Posted 27 April 2018 - 08:33 PM
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