Fitting Quaife Atb, Should I Upgraded The Drive Shafts?

The ATBs are worth their cash.
If you don’t realise it’s there, but don’t end up in the scenery, then it’s done it’s job

Are you running pot joints or hardy spicer joints?

 

If you have hardy spicer, just look at uj itself, and replace as they are only £9ea

I have just taken my new Quaife ATB out of the box.

 

When I hold one output shaft should I be able to turn the other by hand?

 

It seems to be locked solid. 

I have just taken my new Quaife ATB out of the box.

When I hold one output shaft should I be able to turn the other by hand?

It seems to be locked solid.

Completely normal

I would love an ATB if money allowed. Is the a difference between the quaife unit and the swiftune branded one? There is also a mini spares evolution one. Anyone know how it compares? It's cheeper.

Quaife and swiftune atb are the same thing. Swiftune are the distributor for mini quaife ATB's.
Minispares evolution diff is a plate type diff, you need to add compatible crownwheel and pinion & output shafts and possibly side plates if it requires cooper s type.
Quaife atb can use standard crownwheel and comes with its own output shafts.
ATB and plate type diffs a very different beasts.
Generally ATB for road and plate for competition.

Hi, thanks. I was thinking about this one. They say the words 'torque biasing', but not 'automatic'.

http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

It's still a plate type diff that requires maintenance and is probably still more aggressive than a quaife 'gear type' diff which is maintenance free.
It may initially look cheaper but you need to add 2 output shafts (and hardy spicer joints and drive shafts if you don't already have them), lsd crownwheel and pinion ans a pair of cooper S gearbox side plates,and possibly some time clearancing the gearbox and diff case. That little lot is an additional £550 assuming you already have hardy spicer joints and shafts.
The plate type diff is also supposed to be very difficult to drive on the road.
You won't be disappointed with an ATB if it's for road use.

Don't want to hijack the thread but it's mainly for a road car but do 12 car rallies, grass Autotests and Autosolos too.

I'm sure it would be amazing for Autosolos but not 100% sure about it on the loose stuff..

Thanks, plate doff is a no no then. ATB it is (when I redo the gearbox).

ATB is perfect for what you want.

Getting some strange driving characteristics now I've fitted it.

I had the suspension all set up, 1.5 camber, 4 caster, and 0.20deg (that's in minutes or 1/4 a degree) tow out,

But under acceleration it's impossible to keep in a straight line.

The tie bar bushes are new (mini spares Evo with purple on the outside)

Any suggestions? Steering rack isn't moving on the body (I've had that before) a d everything else is in perfect condition

It's brilliant in the corners though lol

have you set the corner weights?

Yeah, Im gonna say corner weights too, as it squats under acceleratation if the corner weights are off then it'll bias the weight and cause this sort of thing, also uneven road surfaces can cause the same, but in that case theres not a lot you can do apart for either hold on tight, or use the force to anticipate it...

 

On my setup, i added metro steering arms ( but then I am on metro hubs but lets not go there!) the arms are longer and act like a "slow rack" wiving more mechanical advanage. also that was on a pretty pokey turbo motor.

I'm glad you've said corner weights as that's one of the things I suspected, I will check that first,

As for road surface I had first assumed that's what it was but it's exactly the same on track (Oulton park) so I think we can rule that out?

Also, what are the alignment settings on the rear?