Rod Change Oil Seal
#1
Posted 25 October 2020 - 09:20 AM
Is the modified kit pretty reliable at solving leaks from the rod changer or is there anything else I can do as well to improve it? The gearbox is currently out if the car.
#2
Posted 25 October 2020 - 10:06 AM
More or less as you have said here, however a few tips;-
Be very careful getting the old seal out that you don't scratch or score the bore that it's in, or it will forever leak
Don't fit the Gaiter - they cause more issues than they resolve.
Generally, these kits work well, but do have limits.
The reason these gearboxes leak from the shaft is that there's play and sometimes wear in the Gearbox Case that a bushing for the Interlock Spool and the Shaft (that runs inside that). With the amount of play they have, it takes the shaft outside the limits of the range of the Seal and so they end up with a Gap between the Shaft and the Seal on some point around the lips of the Seal. As these are a small dia, they're take up range is small, meaning the shaft doesn't need to move far off center before it's ineffective.
The Aluminum Bush goes a long way towards removing the play from the shaft and so the seal has a better chance of sealing !
I've used these with great results, but, if the Casing is quite worn, then these won't cut it.
#3
Posted 25 October 2020 - 10:23 AM
+1 on the rubber boot being a pain - jumps out of 2nd more often
I have fitted 2 seals - I cut one seal in half and glued it to the complete seal & left it in a vice overnight to cure
I have also loctighted the seal in place - (not the bush) , to stop it falling out
and it isn't leaking after a year - but it will eventually , they always do in the end , so I need to make another
PS - I spent ages trying to get the old bush out - all it would do is spin
so ....
I attached an old vacuum cleaner over the hole - and it flew up the hose as soon as it was switched on
probably just luck , but it worked for me (don't use good vacuum cleaner - and always drain all oil first)
#4
Posted 25 October 2020 - 11:40 AM
I've now removed the seal and bush ... I removed the bush by carefully drilling a 2mm hole (not through!) and used a self tapper to draw it out, at which point I discovered it was already the Minispares type! The casing looks fine and I'm sure the o-ring has been doing its job, but there's noticeable play of the shaft inside the bush, too much I suspect for the seal to cope.
I'll try the "split twin seal" method, it sounds like a good idea.
#5
Posted 25 October 2020 - 08:04 PM
I'll try the "split twin seal" method, it sounds like a good idea.
Sadly I didn't take any pics of it - I think the phone was on charge
and I recon it will leak again - hopefully take longer with 2 seals , see what happens
Edited by sledgehammer, 25 October 2020 - 08:06 PM.
#6
Posted 25 October 2020 - 08:24 PM
Ace idea there Sledghammer !
If we were smart,,, we'd drill and tap a couple of opposed say M3, in the new Bushes before we fit them, so we can get them back out at a later date. I must remember to do this next time I fit them !
#7
Posted 25 October 2020 - 10:05 PM
Ace idea there Sledghammer !
If we were smart,,, we'd drill and tap a couple of opposed say M3, in the new Bushes before we fit them, so we can get them back out at a later date. I must remember to do this next time I fit them !
Good thinking!
One thing I did notice when removing the old seal was that the open side with the spring was towards the bush, the plain side outwards. Looking at the centre of the seal and the "direction" of the sealing section, I think it ought to be the other way round, open side outwards?
#8
Posted 25 October 2020 - 10:30 PM
The open side always goes towards the fluid you are trying to hold in.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users