1976 Australian Moke.

Essential tools for quickly removing an inner race.

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Hub in position, retaining washer, castle nut and split pin in place. I banged the grease cap too hard and dented it. I’m replacing it with an alloy one. The Superfin alloy alloy brake drums look good. Can you see the dent?

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Edited by Martin108, 24 February 2021 - 10:50 PM.

One side ready for assembly.

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I know the frustration of dinged or dented Caps. Just about every one I come across here looks like it's been used for punching practice. They still do their job, but look awful. I usually fit new Steel Caps (my pockets aren't as deep as yours !) I made a tool for fitting them without the risk of damage;-

While I turned the ID here from the Bell End of some 50 mm conduit, there maybe a Plumbing Fitting that's the right size, or, with Conduit, it can be carefully heated with a hot air gun to soften it, then make the Bell a little larger. The Hose Clip possibly isn't necessary, I only fitted it as 'insurance' as I turned this one and the wall thickness is a little thin.

I know the frustration of dinged or dented Caps. Just about every one I come across here looks like it's been used for punching practice. They still do their job, but look awful. I usually fit new Steel Caps (my pockets aren't as deep as yours !) I made a tool for fitting them without the risk of damage;-

 

 

 

While I turned the ID here from the Bell End of some 50 mm conduit, there maybe a Plumbing Fitting that's the right size, or, with Conduit, it can be carefully heated with a hot air gun to soften it, then make the Bell a little larger. The Hose Clip possibly isn't necessary, I only fitted it as 'insurance' as I turned this one and the wall thickness is a little thin.

A simple engineering solution to a problem. I didn’t realise I could get alloy grease caps, not as expensive as you might think. 

Edited by Martin108, 28 February 2021 - 11:00 AM.

A simple engineering solution to a problem. I didn’t realised I could get alloy grease caps, not as expensive as you might think.

To be honest here, I've never actually gone looking, but you've given me an idea,,,,,, Cheers 


 

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Edited by Martin108, 27 February 2021 - 08:23 PM.

When it’s dry in Northern Ireland you just have to set the Moke aside and put a few miles on the Mini. This is Katie my 1992 Mayfair.

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Looks like new !

It nearly is. This was my Grandad’s car. He left it to me when he died.
 

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Edited by Martin108, 28 February 2021 - 08:06 PM.

I started to assemble the rear suspension. The radius arms and the Hi Lo’s went in ok. When I offered up the Spax shock to the radius arm, the end wouldn’t go over the connection. I initially thought I’d got the wrong end on the Spax but after a quick consultation with all the Mokers on the internet I discovered an inner from the old shock absorber was still in place. That would be par for the course with this build, an inner from a bearing in the radius arm, the inner race on the hub shaft and now this. What next? A quick twist with a pair of vice grips and the inner came off, letting me fix the Spax shock in place. Result!!

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When fitting the rubbers I notice some dots painted on the underside. They all had three green dots but two had a white dot and two had a pink dot. Are all the rubbers the same? 
 

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I’ve been wanting to put these wheels on for ages. I’m very pleased with the results.

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Martin, your Grandad's Mini came up amazing, especially considering where you started from with it. Extra credits for that one! I can't believe it's the same car !

The sleeve 'trick' is fairly common, yours came off easy, some need filing off. The Stud is easy to remove to make the job easier if it wants to put up a fight.

In regards to the coloured dots on the M-parts Cones, I've noticed them too, however, when I've tested them, there's no difference between them. Only a guess but I suspect it's some type of QC or dating code.

More progress, I’ve got two wheels on my wagon.

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