Which Dizzy And Carb?

Hey guys, I’ve recently done a carb conversion on my car, had another post on this recently. I first had the standard spi dizzy in the car being controlled by the ecu but it was running like a dog. I then got a A+ dizzy and installed this into my car, completely removing the ecu. It didn’t even start.... I later realised that this dizzy was off a 998cc engine not a 1275cc (like mine) and also I believe the dizzy was a 59d dizzy with 45d points inside. Anyway, I’m fed up now and just want to get it running properly as although it’s drivable with the ecu controlling the timing, it’s far from enjoyable. Which dizzy should I get to best suit my needs? The car has a hi lift cam and straight through exhaust, hopefully some more performance mods soon when it’s running nicely. Also the car currently has a Nikki downdraught carb, I think I’m going to change this too as parts are almost impossible to come by. Any help, cheers guys.

Buy a second hand 65D dizzy and get it rebuilt and recurved to suit your setup.

You'll also need a suitable coil and connection loom

Edited by cal844, 24 November 2020 - 06:51 PM.

And then you will have problems getting the car through the MOT as it will need to pass the injection emissions.

I can sort it come mot time don’t worry ;) just need some help on what dizzy and carb to get to make it run best

Buy a second hand 65D dizzy and get it rebuilt and recurved to suit your setup.

You'll also need a suitable coil and connection loom

What would the cost be to get it rebuilt and curved? Have seen a few 65d dizzys for around £60-70 brand new, or would I still need to get it recurved to achieve the best performance even with a brand new dizzy?

A dissy is a simple thing,if it physically fits and rotates and has points it will run your engine if correctly timed.Granted the curve may be poor and the max advance may be incorrect but this could also be the same with any other ,even the one the car had originally,Google Kettering Ignition system.You might surprise yourself and become a distributor god.Good luck with it,Steve..

A dissy is a simple thing,if it physically fits and rotates and has points it will run your engine if correctly timed.Granted the curve may be poor and the max advance may be incorrect but this could also be the same with any other ,even the one the car had originally,Google Kettering Ignition system.You might surprise yourself and become a distributor god.Good luck with it,Steve..

Cheers man I’ll check it out. That’s the thing I’ve seen a few people use the 59d on the carb conversions, even the kit from minimania comes with this dizzy, and they seem to be a fair bit cheaper. As much as it would be nice I’m not trying to increase the power hugely with the car, just make it a bit more sporty, so if a part has minor power gains over another but costs a lot more I’ll go for the cheaper option, as I’m only 17 and haven’t even passed my driving test yet. I just want the car to be as reliable as I can get it whilst also being fun. Cheers guys

As regards to a carb which would be best suited to my spec? Although I may find the Nikki carb works perfectly when I properly set up the timing I’m thinking I still may replace it just due to the much greater amount of spare parts and guides online for an su carb.

As regards to a carb which would be best suited to my spec? Although I may find the Nikki carb works perfectly when I properly set up the timing I’m thinking I still may replace it just due to the much greater amount of spare parts and guides online for an su carb.

"A high lift cam" isnt specific enough to give proper advise.

As regards to a carb which would be best suited to my spec? Although I may find the Nikki carb works perfectly when I properly set up the timing I’m thinking I still may replace it just due to the much greater amount of spare parts and guides online for an su carb.

"A high lift cam" isnt specific enough to give proper advise.

Sorry mate, the cam is a 264 Evo Fast Road Cam

If you want the car to be reliable buy an electronic distributor. The 65D (with vacuum advance can) is the closest curve you'll get to your current distributor.

If I was in your position I'd fit a second hand unit, checking for spindle play before fitting incase the unit needs rebushed.

If you want the car to be reliable buy an electronic distributor. The 65D (with vacuum advance can) is the closest curve you'll get to your current distributor.

If I was in your position I'd fit a second hand unit, checking for spindle play before fitting incase the unit needs rebushed.

I've said this before and you keep spreading this misinformation. A 65D is not a good reference for a distributor curve . There multiple 65D distributors around with different advance curves. More than 10 different possible curves. All very different. I've posted the PDF with these curves before.

Well if that's the case how does a 65D dizzy work on a 998 engine 😉

A 65D will work perfectly fine on any engine. The wear from the wrong curve will take 100,000+ miles to cause any damage.

I've had a 65D fitted to a 998 A+motor for 10 years with no issues what so ever being caused by the wrong curve. I only post what I know and can prove.

Edited by cal844, 27 November 2020 - 11:28 AM.

Well if that's the case how does a 65D dizzy work on a 998 engine 😉

A 65D will work perfectly fine on any engine. The wear from the wrong curve will take 100,000+ miles to cause any damage.

I've had a 65D fitted to a 998 A+motor for 10 years with no issues what so ever being caused by the wrong curve. I only post what I know and can prove.

Because of luck, maybe.
"The wear from the wrong curve will take 100k miles to cause any damage". No, just no.
Haven't you seen moke spider 's post on what happens with wrong distributor curves?
Saying that it takes 100k miles to do damage is a good explanation why you dont notice what curve you actualy need.

https://mgaguru.com/...butor_specs.pdf

11 different 65dm4 curves. 11.

Just my 2p,the curves were set for good engines and old fuel and unworn dissy.Fuel has changed lots of things are worn out and when I read of how many people "have the timing slip" I doubt that any of the curves will cause serious damage as the timing is fully in by 3000 rpmish(50 mph).Sure things will perform better if correctly set but every one seems to like shiny newdissys.It seems at the risk of being burned that rather than diagnose a fault it is required to replace everything with new.Just my thoughts as a blacksmith.Steve..