I’ve removed the roll pins and disconnected the rods. When disconnected the gearbox will select reverse using mole grips, and the gearstick will move freely between the gears, but once connected no reverse.
Here is the spec I’m working with, sorry my car is a bit of a mongrel in this departement:
Body - 1969 Riley Elf, remote change round tunnel
Engine - A plus fully rebuilt (professionally)
Gearbox - fully rebuilt Rod change manual, original to the engine as far as I’m aware
Front subframe - twin bolt dry, but auto. Engine has been fitted using the auto to manual kits you can buy
Important to note that this set up worked fine before the car came apart, only difference was the front subframe which was a single bolt manual one before it came apart.
So as the subframe is an auto my understanding is that I needed a longer gearbox steady rod to make up for the engine sitting further forward. This seemed to be the case as with the original steady the gear lever wasn’t in the hole in the tunnel.
I used this steady
http://www.minispare...|Back to search
I maintained the original shorter top steady. I did fit the longer one off an auto to start but it put the gearbox casing within 4-5mm of the subframe which didn’t seem right.
http://www.minispare...|Back to search
And this conversion kit to fit the rod change in the round tunnel
https://www.minispar...conversion.aspx
Finally worth mentioning that I haven’t had this engine running yet as I have no fuel system installed. Don’t want to get too far down the line with engine ancilliaries in case the thing has to come back out.
So I’m confused. It seems odd that it just won’t work when it’s all connected up together. As I say it seems to be the twist motion of moving the lever over to the right that something doesn’t like. I’m wondering if somewhere there’s and angle issue and things are not being pushed/pulled as they should be. Anyone got any ideas?
Edited by humph, 22 February 2021 - 10:36 PM.