Time To Replace The Subframe.

Ive been putting it off but its time to replace the rear subframe on the old girl:

 

 

I have found a really good garage to do this for me and they're naturally saying I should buy the best replacement unit I can.

So I guess that means a Heritage item.

 

Looking on mini Sport's site today -  the 'pattern' ones look very tempting at half the price and I've certainly heard some good comments about these latest ones.

 

Does anyone have any good or bad experience with the current batch of frame at Mini Spares?

 

Thanks

Hi, 

 

I had a pattern one from them last month, it was ok, some sharp edges etc, but nothing that was a problem. 

 

Nick

Hi, 

 

I had a pattern one from them last month, it was ok, some sharp edges etc, but nothing that was a problem. 

 

Nick

That's encouraging to hear - No issues with distortion or holes not lining up etc?

 

Hi, 

 

I had a pattern one from them last month, it was ok, some sharp edges etc, but nothing that was a problem. 

 

Nick

That's encouraging to hear - No issues with distortion or holes not lining up etc?

 

 

No it wasn't too bad at all. It did need two people and a bit of keeping all fittings loose whilst all the holes lined up, but nothing horrific. 

I see the frames come in E coat and powder coat finishes.

 

- anyone know the pros and cons of these options?

E coat is the same as panels and is normally repainted with chassis black or something tough - good thing being you can touch up. 

 

Powdercoat is tough but there are various reports of it chipping and harbouring water - difficult to touch up.

If you're going pattern get one from Minispares who have started making their own better quality ones.  Mine went on well, and added bonus is their sale starts 26th November.

 

 

As for coatings as said powder coat is difficult to repair if damaged, E coat needs painting for protection, I used epoxy primer on mine.

Edited by humph, 24 November 2021 - 04:44 PM.

So a word of caution with regards to E coat. Now having personally come across this on more than one occasion, E coat is only good if the bare metal is completely free of rust to start with.

 

Now if you want real longevity then getting the subbie galvanised then powder coated would be the way fwd. 

I've not in the past been a fan of powder coat, but I've come back a fair bit from that recently.

 

If the powder coating has been done properly, as it turns out, it is hard to scratch or chip through, it seems as part of this to get a good job, as well as it needing to be clean to start with, the steel needs to be baked at the right temperature and for the right amount of time. I suspect that with high energy costs, some shops may skimp on that part ?  When done right, it's a ripe chore to remove, it really gets in to the pores of the steel. When done wrong, as Tom mentioned above, it's quite bad news from my experience (and that's what put me off it for so long).

Powdercoating is very hard to get a long lasting finish.

What I do is use a high build self etch primer and 2k Black. I paint the areas that I can't get to on the car (basically everything except the areas I'd jack it up on) then paint the jacked areas once the car is built.

Hope this helps

Cal

When I used to build up rear subframes, I always gave people the choice of Heritage or Pattern parts

 

The majority was pattern subframes. I would use the subframes from MiniSpares as the fit is very good

 

All the crap has gone now, them been the subbys that you would see outside the motorists shops for £30

 

They do need a coating, and again I used 2K paint, then an option of some kind of extra rust protection in the web parts where water can sit.

 

Never been a lover of powder coating, the previous comments echo my thoughts too 

 

Spare a thought for any other bits that you will need as well when you have the frame off,  30 years of work will take it's toll

Now gathering a set of parts before the rear subframe job starts.

 

I'm thinking new rubber springs will be a good idea as the  the originals are on there.

The shocks also are original .

Brake lines -  seem OK but we'll look at those closely when they come out.

Hi-los - a possibility but I like keeping things standard.

Ive got a subframe fitting kit Ms41 from mini spares.

 

Anyone know of any other bits I'll probably need? The car is 33yrs old and 25k miles.

Hello,

 

I would also check fuel lines, battery cable and hand brake system once you're on it.

How are the bearings in the rear trailer arms?

 

Gilles

Now gathering a set of parts before the rear subframe job starts.

 

I'm thinking new rubber springs will be a good idea as the  the originals are on there.

The shocks also are original .

Brake lines -  seem OK but we'll look at those closely when they come out.

Hi-los - a possibility but I like keeping things standard.

Ive got a subframe fitting kit Ms41 from mini spares.

 

Anyone know of any other bits I'll probably need? The car is 33yrs old and 25k miles.

Be advised that when you change the rubber cones (springs) the ride hight will be a lot higher (is will settle over time they say). So for that you might want to consider placing Hi-Los. Also it could be that the non geniune subframe might present a different hight of riding if part where the thrumpets reside have a different offset. Don't think that this would be the case, but then again, HiLos will let you counter that..


Just saying..

Just to conlude this thread- the mini spares pattern subframe went on without any issues.
Full marks to mini spares.