27 replies to this topic

[1987_ParkLane]

So Tom got in contact with me asking if I could kindly measure mine, and finding it would help a lot of people, here we go:





Hope they help.

Cheers

[Surfbluegarage]

just another few things... A. does anyone know how thick the plate is that bolts to the head? im guessin at 6-8mm and B. how far down does the base plate that the charger sits on sit below the top of the head. i.e level with where the rocker gasket sits on.

[minibazzer]

You dont have to cut off those lugs to clear the manifold, if your making the kit, you might as well just run a single belt that does alternator, water aswell rather than use a V belt. It means you can get the charger further to the left and make everything so much easier. If you go for the Jonspeed/Vmaxx set up you will need to machine into the charger, if you use one drivebelt, you wont need to.

On mine, I've machined away all of the area in red;

just out of interest, what was your thought behind machining away the area you marked? I have purchased the Vmax Scart kit and there has been no machining done to any part of the charger that attaches to the inlet manifold. I would be very keen to understand the benefits of doing this and/or the implications of not doing it. Also, I presume that I would need to remove the blades before doing any form of machining in this area?

Cheers, Si

[Surfbluegarage]

hmmmm very good point... but i was told never to remove the blades as the way they went in is the way they have to stay and to remove them you could possibally misalign them and with thou between them.... could be bad..lol but saying that ive also bin told to grind away an area in the thick spot of the charger on the bottom where my pen is as to allow flow. As the hole in the manifold sits underneath that slab of metal

[Sammy D]

You could do it with the blades still in there but it's a bit hektic. Just take the charger apart, it comes apart pretty easy.

Like zis;





Much better flowing than the Vmax/Jonspeed design.

Some food for thought.

[Tomf]

Looks like a much better design that the kits on the market, i think iv decided on a different way of amking my inlet, im just waiting on parts to come through the post then ill start on making it, it should offer alot better flow than the kits on the market offer and should be alot cheaper to make...

Where did you get your kit from sam? as i remember reading that your brought it as a full kit in the end...

[1275midget]

what's the thinking on whether the inlet manifold is balanced for each port?

I know its important for a non-forced induction setup, and I'd noticed that the images here, one is centralised on the manifold (same distance for the air to go) and the other appears not to be...

my plan was to adapt a standard mini single carb manifold with a sort of s-bendy thing to put the hole in the centre of the charger outlet - as it's in a midget I have a lot more space "behind" the engine to play with..

Rob

[1275midget]

bump

[Surfbluegarage]

i thought with forced induction it didnt matter to much if it was balanced from the off as the back pressure when valaves are closed equals out in all chambers?
spose there no stopping you mounting it this way... i thought about that but went with an all steel one rather than mixin cast with non cast as to be able to wled to and adapt more.
my mates using a mini manifold.. guess which one?lol

[ferrox_666]

'Ideally' one would want both ports to be equal distances but this world is far from perfect..
If its in a Midget i think fabricating a plenum under the charger feeding both ports would make best use of the space available, ..or a f*&k off turbo lol

[nobbycameron]

hello, im doing the same as you, making the kit from scratch.
local car dismantler and they have a
the manifold seems fairly straight forward, just a bit of time with the welder.

My idea at the moment with regard to the pulley is to try and find one off the shelf and get a longer crank bolt made, i think this will be cheaper than getting a whole pulley made, the belt is a standard 6PK whick is widely used in cars for alternators etc. I went to my local car dismantler and they have a massive rack full of pulleys, all i need to do is calculate the size i need for a 1275 running 10psi then i sure there will be a way of attaching it to the mini pulley. Also no need to machine a keyway would save a lot of hassle,

my question is to you is how do you calculate the required pulley size ofr 10psi, my calculations keep showing up with a pulley ratio od 1:1 which is way too slow... any suggestions...

[Rosslin Racing]

You could do it with the blades still in there but it's a bit hektic. Just take the charger apart, it comes apart pretty easy.

Like zis;





Much better flowing than the Vmax/Jonspeed design.

Some food for thought.

That manifold looks tonnes better. The one I have is a plate with a hole in it.!

[smj]

If anyone is stuck making the sheet metal work for their inlet manifold, or any of the flat stuff for their charger project, give me a dimensioned sketch(scanned drawing, photo, paint file whatever) and i can draw it in autocad and get it laser cut and posted to you very very reasonably priced, you can find us at www.lasermaster.co.uk, or ebay search for profilemen. I am starting my own supercharger project at the moment but am just now building a low compression engine up before i get stuck into the fitting up stage etc etc