19 replies to this topic

[karl & his cooper]

Mg Metro 1275cc with the factory dizzy that has the electronic black box on side with 3 pins, wired it up to advice given on here after getting an electronic ignition coil to replace the old ballast one, just want to check its all ok:

Ok can someone please check me on this:

To the postive + on the coil:

White/Pinky red that runs of to the fuse box
ite/Yellow that runs down to the starter motor
red wire that goes to the top in on the electronic module on the dizzy

To the negative -ve on the coil:

White/Black that goes off into the loom somehwere but not to the fuse box
Black wire to bottom pin on the electonic module on the dizzy

Middle dizzy pin unused, this is for a electronic dizzy on a mg metro 1275cc

Thanks

Karl

[karl & his cooper]

BUMP

[GraemeC]

On the positive of the coil:
Remove the white/yellow (this is the bypass wire for the ballast system) and tape up to insulate.
Disconnect the pink wire at either and tape up - the pink wire is a special 'resistive' wire that will drop the voltage to around 9V the ballast system needed.
Add a new wire from the fuse box to the +ve of the coil (preferably white to keep it the same as 'standard') this'll give the full 12V needed.

-ve side sounds fine.

[Ethel]

Firstly you just need one regular 12v supply (that's only live when the ignition is switched on) to the +ve terminal on your coil. Neither the pink/white or yellow/white do this so tap a new one off the fuse box (if you're lucky there may be one, coloured solid white, wrapped up in the loom to the coil).

Then you just connect the dizzy to both terminals on the coil. White to +ve and black/white to -ve if you have the original wires off the metty.

The extra black/white running in to the loom goes to the rev counter if fitted.

[karl & his cooper]

On the positive of the coil:
Remove the white/yellow (this is the bypass wire for the ballast system) and tape up to insulate.
Disconnect the pink wire at either and tape up - the pink wire is a special 'resistive' wire that will drop the voltage to around 9V the ballast system needed.
Add a new wire from the fuse box to the +ve of the coil (preferably white to keep it the same as 'standard') this'll give the full 12V needed.

-ve side sounds fine.

Ok will do, does it have to be a 12v all time or 12v live when ignition is on or what?

Thanks!!

[GraemeC]

12V with ignition on.

[karl & his cooper]

12V with ignition on.

battery is out charging at the momment is there anyway to find a 12v feed with ignition on by taping into a known feed/(coloured wire) or off the starter motor or something?

[karl & his cooper]

Firstly you just need one regular 12v supply (that's only live when the ignition is switched on) to the +ve terminal on your coil. Neither the pink/white or yellow/white do this so tap a new one off the fuse box (if you're lucky there may be one, coloured solid white, wrapped up in the loom to the coil).

Then you just connect the dizzy to both terminals on the coil. White to +ve and black/white to -ve if you have the original wires off the metty.

The extra black/white running in to the loom goes to the rev counter if fitted.

Whats the white/yellow wire for then??!

[M44K TS]

off topic, but why do you always bump you topics after about 20 mins?

give people a chance to reply before bumping it

[GraemeC]

Take the 12V feed from where the pink wire connects to the fusebox (ie replace the pink wire)

White/yellow provides 12V to the coil only whilst the starter is engaged.

[karl & his cooper]

off topic, but why do you always bump you topics after about 20 mins?

give people a chance to reply before bumping it

Because I am outside in the cold and rain waiting to start this engine for 1st time

[karl & his cooper]

Take the 12V feed from where the pink wire connects to the fusebox (ie replace the pink wire)

White/yellow provides 12V to the coil only whilst the starter is engaged.

Thankyou!

[karl & his cooper]

I am trying to roughly statically set my distributor and I read that when cyc1 is at TDC the rotor arm needs to be in a 2#oclock position (saw this on a thread on here for 1275 dizzy setting same as mine)

How can I determine when cyclinder 1 is TDC without removing the rocker, I know the spark plug out and rod in but this shows cyc 1 and 4 at TDC and then I need to know which cyclinder is at compression. Can I use the notch on the pully/crank wheel when thats visible against timing marks and my rod is at top in cyclinder 1 then cyclinder 1 is under compression?

Thanks

[Ethel]

if the dizzy is on more or less fitted right... when the timing marks line up the rotor arm should be pointing at the No1 cylinder plug lead on the dizzy cap. If it's pointing in the opposite direction: no4 is at tdc on it's firing stroke 'n you need to turn the crank 360 degrees (or set the timing off no 4's plug with your strobe)

[karl & his cooper]

if the dizzy is on more or less fitted right... when the timing marks line up the rotor arm should be pointing at the No1 cylinder plug lead on the dizzy cap. If it's pointing in the opposite direction: no4 is at tdc on it's firing stroke 'n you need to turn the crank 360 degrees (or set the timing off no 4's plug with your strobe)

I dont have a strobe just wanted to give it the best chance possible to get the engine ive just put in started! So was going to do it statically!? Any advice how to do this would be great