10 replies to this topic

[lewisdw]

Hello. I'm the proud owner of a recently acquired 1989 Mini (I believe it's a Mk V Saloon) with a 998cc engine (also not positive on this). I purchased without knowing much about these cars. It's not perfect, but runs well and is getting good gas mileage. It has a few quirks, however, that I want to get some assistance with. I've taken a few pictures that will hopefully help.

The first problem is when it's cold out, below 50 deg F, the car runs roughly until it's warmed up. I don't have a haynes manuel for this car yet, but I believe the choke on the carburetor is not functioning correctly. I looked at the carb, and it's a strange beast (I'm mechanically familiar with air cooled VWs mostly). I can't identify a choke on the carb. Can someone point me to details on the carb and how to adjust/rebuild it and set the choke? I see two cables going to the carb, one is the throttle I know, not sure what the other is for.

Second problem, after long drives and the engine warms up considerably (more than 30 minutes driving), the car develops a tendency to miss. The tach will drop to zero for an instant, like the engine has completely stopped, then it starts back. I don't think it's fuel related, I've tested the output of the mechanical fuel pump, so it might be ignition related, something overheating possibly? If I slow down (below 100kph and rpm below 3000) and let it cool, the hesitation/miss gets less or goes away. I don't know the age of the points/condensor, coil, plugs or wires. I was thinking of changing all of these and setting the timing. The plugs are clean and gray/ashey when I looked at them, a little towards lean I would say. What is the timing specs and any links to how to check/set the timing with a light?

On the side of the distributor I see the word Lucas but no numbers, how can I tell which one I have? Is there a pertronix or compufire for these distributors to replace the points?
The car in question:




The carb:



This picture shows the two fuel lines going to the float bowl on the side of the carb. One line is in. The second line is out from the bowl and the other end doesn't connect to anything (would drain onto the engine or ground). Is this normal (would seem to be a fire hazard):




Is this the windshield washer pump? It doesn't work if so, and where can I get a replacement plus washer bottle?


You can't tell it in this picture, but the plastic breather/filter box has a gap all the way around. What is wrong with it?


The distributor:


Entire engine compartment




Model: Mk V Saloon (I think)
Year: 1989
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible): See above



Any non-standard parts that might be involved with the problem? None that I know of

[lrostoke]

I'll try answer some maybe not in the right order

OK easy one yes is electronic ignition kit, Pertronix goes by the name Aldon over here, Aldon part number is LU144, pertronix maybe the same

The air filter the black thing with the gap, looks like its not clipped together properley, clip it together then fit to the car. Wants sorting it maybe the cause of your weak running you mention, weak running can also cause overheating. Which maybe another one of your problems

The choke is the cable on the left (right side of carb), the knob that controls it is the one on the left inside the car (I'm assuming left hand drive cars the dash is the same )
You need to keep adjusting the choke until the engine is warmed up enough not to need it, usually within 5 or 10 minutes of driving.

The pipe going nowhere on the carb, is an overflow, breather, top of the clutch housing should be a rigid metal pipe, it should plug into this, that rigid pipe just feeds down so any spilled fuel goes on the ground.

Can't actually see your windscreen washer bottle, but on UK models its to the left of the brake master cylinder/servo, pump is built into the bottle on that age.

Your dizzy looks a bit dirty and looks like its got damp on, good idea to clean that and the leads, and buy or make a weather shield to keep it clean and dry.

Edited by lrostoke, 07 September 2010 - 06:56 PM.

[dklawson]

Irostoke answered your questions already.

I only want to point out that the tachometer is electronic, not cable driven. If you see it drop to zero while the car is at speed on the road, it means you have either lost an electrical connection to the tach or you really have lost spark. Since you observe the tach stopping during misfires, you should feel confident looking for an electrical/ignition issue.

Since you are unsure of the age of the ignition components, start with a general, complete tune up. Set the valves cold, then fit a new set of points and a new condenser. Once you set the points and the ignition timing, see if the car runs better at speed. If not, reluctantly turn your attention to the coil. Coils do not fail often and I discourage people from arbitrarily replacing them as part of troubleshooting. However, you are describing classic symptoms of both coil and condenser failures. (Ignition stops working properly at high speed or when the engine is hot). Start with the cheap components first (plugs, wires, points, condenser, cap, rotor) then if necessary move on to trying a new coil.

Always go through a complete ignition tuneup before touching adjustments on the carb. by the way, that carb appears to be an SU HS4.

Your car appears to be LHD as Irostoke noted. Where are you located?

[lewisdw]

Thanks dklawson and lrostoke. That helps a lot. I'm just beginning to learn about this car. I never thought about it having a manual choke being much newer than the aircooled VWs I have (that have electric chokes).

I found the owners manual on this site and learned what most of the knobs/switches do. I have a one toggle switch in the center console that has a picture of a pedal on it. Any idea what this does? I didn't find it in the owner's manual.

I am located in Ramstein, Germany, for a few years and that is where I purchased this car for a daily driver and to tinker on. I'm going to be ordering the ignition parts to hopefully stop the stalling. I was thinking of getting the pertronix and keep the points/condensor as a spare. I've had good luck with pertronix on my bugs.

I had to leave my welder in the states, so I'll be looking for someone that can weld in some floor panel patches (these things rust worse than beetles!). If anyone reading this is in my area and can do welding, or can recommend someone, please let me know.

Thanks,

Wayne

[lrostoke]

I found the owners manual on this site and learned what most of the knobs/switches do. I have a one toggle switch in the center console that has a picture of a pedal on it. Any idea what this does? I didn't find it in the owner's manual.

The switch is the brake fluid warning light, on top of the brake reservoir should be two wires coming out of the cap, when the fluid is low it makes a contact on those wires and the light should come on. The switch is just to test the bulb.

[Daveo098]

Hi I am also a new Mini owner, I own Mini Designer 998 and I was wandering if it is worth getting a stage 2 tuning kit to improve engine performance, I will be using the car most days so I want something that is reliable that has a bit of "poke".
I am not as wise as many of the other forum members when it comes to tuning the engine.
Would like to hear some suggestions but nothing crazy.
Thanks

[lrostoke]

Can only speak from experience, but all mine as is a stage 1 kit, plus electronic ignition, used everyday, including a fair few long distance holiday trips in it.
touch wood never misses a beat. Does motorway speeds no problems and I'm normally overtaking other cars on dual carriageways.

[dklawson]

Wayne, there are Pertronix kits for the 23D and 45D Lucas distributors. They work well and since you are familiar with them from your VWs, there will be no surprises fitting them. (We happen to have a Pertronix fitted to my father-in-law's 1200cc Formula-Vee. It's never let us down). What you will find mentioned on this site is the BritParts Kit. (Search for it). It is similar in operation to the Pertronix but significantly less expensive. Regardless, carrying the old points and condenser in the boot is insurance that you will get home should there be a failure with either electronic module.

[lewisdw]

OK easy one yes is electronic ignition kit, Pertronix goes by the name Aldon over here, Aldon part number is LU144, pertronix maybe the same

Your dizzy looks a bit dirty and looks like its got damp on, good idea to clean that and the leads, and buy or make a weather shield to keep it clean and dry.

Can you confirm that the LU144 is the one I need before I spend the money on it? I don't see a # on my distributor, just the Lucas name. Also, you mentioned a weather shield, do you have a link for this item?

Thanks,

Wayne

[lrostoke]

LU144 4 Cyl. Lucas 43/45D4 - Blue Heel Contacts - 1980 -> from Aldon's site

http://www.minispare...=...3334&title=

This is the Britpart unit Doug mentioned, but I'm not sure about delivery to Germany, and it does require a small modification to the dizzy back plate

http://www.mm-4x4.co...-kit-2720-p.asp


Weather shield with fittings

http://www.minispare...=...4217&title=

I'm a cheap skate I use a plastic bin bag just tucked down over the dizzy and folded up over the plugs , I hold it onto the coil to stop it being sucked into the fan

Edited by lrostoke, 08 September 2010 - 02:04 PM.

[ShoutforJoy]

Hi Wayne

I had similar problems to yours with the rev counter dropping and poor performance intermittently. We believe that we've tracked it down to a poor connection on the coil. Cleaned and tightened them all up and it apears to be sorted.

Mine used to do it when cold too so this might not be the same problem as you have but it costs nothing to do and does eliminate one possibility.

hth

Paul