Auto To Manual
#1
Posted 08 September 2010 - 05:31 PM
#2
Posted 08 September 2010 - 07:10 PM
Take a look at this topic here. Somewhere within the replies there is a link to a load of PDFs that document the procedure.
http://www.theminifo...howtopic=167846
hope this helps
#3
Posted 08 September 2010 - 07:54 PM
hi all i want to convert my auto to manual ive got a donor 998 city e with the engine and subframe what else would i need and is there any welding need doing to complete thanks smudge
If you have the subframe and engine available....just swap them over as a unit.
or
You could pull the engine out of the donor and drop it in place of the auto engine....you would just need to install 3/8" spacers on each side of the engine between engine and mounts.
The rod change shifter will bolt right up in place of the auto shifter.
#4
Posted 10 September 2010 - 06:40 PM
and another quick question does anybody know what socket i need to take off the 2 big bolts securing the top of the subframe ive measured it as 1"3/4 and can you get a socket this size thanks
#5
Posted 10 September 2010 - 06:47 PM
Two turret bolts are 1.5/16"
#6
Posted 10 September 2010 - 06:48 PM
#7
Posted 10 September 2010 - 07:17 PM
you would just need to install 3/8" spacers on each side of the engine between engine and mounts.
It's a 3/8" on the clutch side only. Don't bother with the conversion mounts as that is all the one is. You also need to connect the two inhibitor switch leads together.
#8
Posted 10 September 2010 - 08:05 PM
you would just need to install 3/8" spacers on each side of the engine between engine and mounts.
It's a 3/8" on the clutch side only. Don't bother with the conversion mounts as that is all the one is. You also need to connect the two inhibitor switch leads together.
I can speak personally that only putting a spacer in on the rad end does balls it up. Also I don't think the bolt holes line up do they? (was 5 years ago when i did mine!
#9
Posted 11 September 2010 - 02:33 PM
you would just need to install 3/8" spacers on each side of the engine between engine and mounts.
It's a 3/8" on the clutch side only. Don't bother with the conversion mounts as that is all the one is. You also need to connect the two inhibitor switch leads together.
Nope....3/8" on each side is what worked...fits nice.
Ah yes,....one hole on the rad side will also need to be redrilled. Can't remember if the forward or rear one though.
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