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Re-Building a 1380


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#1 smudger

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:42 PM

What do i need to look for, what do i need to buy (gaskets, seals etc) and whilst its apart can i swop the bolts for stainless steel and if so which ones?

Ta

#2 Jimmyarm

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Posted 06 July 2006 - 08:31 AM

Recommend the Minifilms DVD, whilst he builds one from a 1275 he goes through pretty much everything that you need to do/know. Its also ten times easier to understand it from watching the DVD rather than explaining it on here.

#3 Dan

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Posted 06 July 2006 - 09:13 AM

If you're just overhauling an engine that's already a 1380 I don't think that the video will help much. A workshop manual will be far better. Yes you'll need to change the gaskets, the oil pump, the bearings if they fail an inspection or if the crank is worn, the thrusts, the cam followers and possibly the primary gear thrust if it's out of tollerance. Check the idler gear float as well while you're at it. Get an engineer to measure the crank, measure the bores, inspect the rods, inspect the head and valves, camshaft, block and head decks and you need to check the push rods are straight and not worn at the ends. As it's a 1380 if the bores are worn, tapered or oval then it's scrap.

Simple enough really, much like any other engine overhaul. Being a 1380 doesn't change anything other than there being no re-bores left in the block.

Edited by Dan, 06 July 2006 - 09:16 AM.


#4 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 06 July 2006 - 09:27 AM

Also check you piston ring gap in the bores which I would advise deglazing/honing

#5 Purple Tom

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Posted 06 July 2006 - 09:37 AM

if a 1380 block is fully bored (73.5 or 74), is it possible to sleeve the block?

#6 Jimmyarm

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Posted 06 July 2006 - 09:43 AM

If you're just overhauling an engine that's already a 1380 I don't think that the video will help much. A workshop manual will be far better. Yes you'll need to change the gaskets, the oil pump, the bearings if they fail an inspection or if the crank is worn, the thrusts, the cam followers and possibly the primary gear thrust if it's out of tollerance. Check the idler gear float as well while you're at it. Get an engineer to measure the crank, measure the bores, inspect the rods, inspect the head and valves, camshaft, block and head decks and you need to check the push rods are straight and not worn at the ends. As it's a 1380 if the bores are worn, tapered or oval then it's scrap.


It will as he goes through all of that in the video...for £25 its definately worth getting it to go alongside the workshop manual, particularly if you havent ever rebuilt an engine before.

Minis84, I dont believe that you can sleeve an offset bored block

#7 Sprocket

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Posted 06 July 2006 - 12:36 PM

Depends what bolts you want to replace with stainless items. I would not advise fitting stainless where high tensile bolts are originaly fitted

#8 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 06 July 2006 - 01:49 PM

I wouldn't use stainless at all... on anything engine, brake or suspension related.

#9 Herman

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Posted 06 July 2006 - 02:28 PM

Just to clarify why people are advising against stainless - It's because it has a lower strength under tensile load so you might see failures.

I know thats what other people have said, just re-iterating the point really.

#10 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 06 July 2006 - 02:35 PM

In a nutshell... yup

#11 smudger

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Posted 10 July 2006 - 08:19 AM

Oh, ok

and since am lazy, just going to replace gaskets, oil pump and more than likely the cam followers.

Hey its cheap so if it goes bang wont be surprised, lol

Will get hold of DVD but where do i get hold of workshop manual?

Is it worth buying the MiniSport Engine Building book?

Ta

#12 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 10 July 2006 - 08:41 AM

Is it worth buying the MiniSport Engine Building book?


Nah, a workshop manual and common sense is all you need...




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