Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Clutch oil leak


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 Bill USN-1

Bill USN-1

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 260 posts

Posted 07 April 2007 - 09:34 AM

II installed the new motor and all was good in the world...
until about 3 days later I started to notice some oil seaping from the clutch cover seam.
But I didn't have any out the hole in the bottom with the cotter pin in it.

So I was thinking the worse-that I had damaged the seal during the install, but was hoping for the best...that it would stop on it's own.

Well it didn't and I really got aggrevated since I hate motors that leak.

So I yanked the motor and removed the flywheel and clutch.

I saw no evidence of a leak around the seal.
It wasn't even wet.
So I looked at the gear and the crank.

Posted Image

You can see where the seal rides on the gear.
and the holes that lead to the crank.
These are so as it spins the oil that runs between the crank and the gear will be slung back into the motor.

But, what if all of it doesn't get slung out?

Then it goes past the outer bushing in the gear and out past the splines.
At the end is the flywheel that also has holes on the inside to allow the oil to sling out past the clutch.
This keeps the oil off the clutch disc itself.
You can see a small ring of oil where the diaghram contacts the flywheel.

Posted Image

Posted Image


So now that I know how it's supposed to work....
What can you do to keep it from going out to the end of the shaft?
I see no seal and no mention of a sealant during install.

I measured the crank at 1.500" and the gear at 1.506"
So is it just a matter of the bushing at .006" clearance being too worn?
Maybe just clearancing/cleaning the first set of holes to ensure good easy flow for the oil to return to the motor?

Any suggestions before i drop this back in today?

#2 Bill USN-1

Bill USN-1

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 260 posts

Posted 07 April 2007 - 08:57 PM

Maybe I'm the first to ever have this problem??

Lucky me.

#3 Big_Adam

Big_Adam

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,435 posts

Posted 07 April 2007 - 10:27 PM

Maybe I'm the first to ever have this problem??

Lucky me.


It's a slow day, easter weekend and all.

#4 vasi

vasi

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 897 posts
  • Local Club: Minis 'n' Oatcakes

Posted 08 April 2007 - 09:01 AM

Hi Bill. I think I'm following you, but can you please explain exactly where the oil was dripping from? Was it from where the wok meets the transfer housing, or the transfer housing meets the block?

#5 Bill USN-1

Bill USN-1

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 260 posts

Posted 08 April 2007 - 09:57 AM

Hi Bill. I think I'm following you, but can you please explain exactly where the oil was dripping from? Was it from where the wok meets the transfer housing, or the transfer housing meets the block?


It's where the wok meet the TC housing.

The oil is passing though the clutch and coming out the back side towards the throwout bearing.

#6 vasi

vasi

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 897 posts
  • Local Club: Minis 'n' Oatcakes

Posted 08 April 2007 - 04:40 PM

This is strange. Should oil should get to the top hat bush, I thought this runs dry? There is no score on the crank? I'm not sure of the bush tolerances but 6thou would seem quite a lot for a bearing surface. Also, it may just be the photo but the top hat bush doesn't quite look fully home.

#7 icklemini

icklemini

    Up Into Fourth

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,982 posts
  • Location: Northampton

Posted 08 April 2007 - 09:37 PM

looking at 0.003" running clearance between the crank and bush (both bushes..)
also the end float needs setting too...

ttfn,
Dave

#8 Bill USN-1

Bill USN-1

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 260 posts

Posted 09 April 2007 - 05:34 AM

looking at 0.003" running clearance between the crank and bush (both bushes..)
also the end float needs setting too...

ttfn,
Dave


Thanks,
The only spec I found was the end play at .003-.0065.

Guess I'll order up a set of bushings for the gear and do it on the next clutch/engine change.
She's already back in and running now.

I'll just keep my universal fit- drip rag handy...
It fixes all leaks!!

#9 Bill USN-1

Bill USN-1

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 260 posts

Posted 26 April 2007 - 07:50 PM

I've been thinking about this some more.

Now my question is, did the SPI engine have 1 or 2 crank case vents?

I assembled this engine from bits and bobs and I used the diaphram clutch and cover from my 998/1098.
It only had the vent on the side cover.
The SPI had a vent on the front timing cover. I assumed that was all it used.
But I have seen other motors with a rear vent at the transfer case.

So is it possible that this motor just needs another vent or maybe I should install a PCV valve?

I currently run the front cover vent up to the large port on the SPI throttle body. This is above the throttle plate.
I am noticing some oil residue around the oil filler cap so that tells me I am building positive crank pressure.

Thoughts?

Anyone have a diagram of the vent hose/s on a SPI motor.
I looked on my TMF disk but didn't see one.

Edited by Bill USN-1, 26 April 2007 - 07:52 PM.





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users