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1275 Cam Follower Replacement


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#1 greglogan

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Posted 14 October 2008 - 10:46 PM

Model: Clubman
Year: 1978
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible): Hi guys. I'm in the process of changing the cam on a 1275. How do you change the followers without taking the sump off. There's no cam follower accesspanel like there is on a 998, so what do I do. The Kent cam states that new Kent followers must be used. HELP Please!!



Any non-standard parts that might be involved with the problem? No.

#2 Big_Adam

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Posted 14 October 2008 - 10:54 PM

Hi guys. I'm in the process of changing the cam on a 1275. How do you change the followers without taking the sump off.


Okay, seeming as you want to go outside that of the realms of reality.

Using string theory and a large amount of energy coupled with a high power magnet you destabilize the atomic gravity in the area of the block. You must be careful at this point, too much power and the block is goo, too little and you might get your hand stuck when you reach for the followers.

When you reach this sweet spot, either grab or use a tool (pref dencer than the block material) and pull the followers out of the now destabilized block walls.

Then put in the new ones.

Or,

Take off the sump.

#3 greglogan

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Posted 14 October 2008 - 11:08 PM

So, that'll be a sump removal job then, right?! :shifty:

Edited by greglogan, 14 October 2008 - 11:09 PM.


#4 Ethel

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Posted 14 October 2008 - 11:30 PM

Well you could fashion some magnetic rods to hold all the followers up while you remove the cam. Then, poke them out one at a time into a purpose made receptacle that will fit through the cam bearings, before using your purpose made cam follower holder to reposition them ready to be lifted in place by your magnetic rods...

or you could take the gearbox off 'n console yourself that at least you're able to fully inspect the engine and replace bits like the oil pump and crank bearings to add thousands of miles to the life of your engine.

#5 greglogan

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Posted 15 October 2008 - 12:08 AM

So, how big a job is it to remove the sump? does the Flywheel and gearbox need to come off at the same time? Or can they be left in place?

Greg.

Edited by greglogan, 15 October 2008 - 12:09 AM.


#6 GraemeC

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Posted 15 October 2008 - 06:56 AM

Yes flywheel will need to come off. Then transfer case, then gearbox. Not a difficult job really once the engine is sat on the floor out of the car.

#7 Sleepy Stu

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Posted 15 October 2008 - 11:11 AM

You guys are so harsh!! Poor guy has only just joined the site and your taking the p*ss

greglogan i apologise for my fellow members they no not what they do lol :P . Well actually they know an extrodinary amount mini's but sometimes need to word it a little better

But yes in answer to you question its a full engine out job and lots of parts to come of. I assume you have a Haynes manual and this should take you through it step by step. As Ethel has said while you've got it apart i would check everything you can for signs of wear especially the mains bearings, the bigend bearings, cam bearings, and the oil pump!

Welcome to the forum by the way!!!! :thumbsup:

Edited by Stewart_GT, 15 October 2008 - 11:32 AM.


#8 Ethel

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Posted 15 October 2008 - 11:18 AM

Well said Stewart, shame on you Adam :P

I think we only came up with the daft comments because we've actually given some thought to actually trying it :thumbsup:

#9 greglogan

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Posted 15 October 2008 - 01:20 PM

:P Hi lads! Jeez, you'se are awful sore on a new lad!! Only kidding, I'm from Ireland and we don't know any other way to speak to each other over here.

The engine is already on the bench and it's my first dismantle. I just pulled the camshaft out last night and was going to change the followers. Typical Haynes manual says something along the lines of "once you have completly removed the camshaft, remove the acces plate and remove the followers" - great! They make it sound so easy. Reality is, the thought of using my mind to alter the atomic gravity of the block and reaching in with my hand almost seems easier than the alternative of removing the flywheel and gearbox. Over the course of the next week, I'll hopefully get it completly stripped and maybe even start to rebuild. Maybe! I'm not convinced it's worth starting to replace big end shells and bearings tho is it??? Whats the risk involved with leaving the existing followers in place anyway and should I replace the valve springs with something else while I'm at it.

Phew.

Sorry for the long post.


Greg. :thumbsup:

#10 Ethel

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Posted 15 October 2008 - 01:37 PM

You probably haven't got any choice if the cam's out, you should remove the followers first, if you had tappet chests, so they don't drop down and foul on the cam. You could get away with turning the engine upside down to keep the followers in place, but if you are installing a new cam you're courting disaster if you use old followers, they really can fail if they are not run in together. If you think about which bits are subject to wear in an engine you'll realise that crank bearings and oil pumps really do have a far harder time of it than almost anything else, they also are the main cause of low oil pressure 'n that kills most engines in the end. It might cost you about £100 to strip down and rebuild an engine properly (gaskets, bearings, big end nuts 'n bolts...) but it's money well spent if saves you lifting the engine out again.

#11 greglogan

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Posted 15 October 2008 - 02:03 PM

Thanks again for the responses. Is there any risk to replacing just one exhaust valve or should I replace the lot?

Thanks

Greg.




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