11 replies to this topic

[MINI 1]

hi , just started to build my 1380 and using EP GEAR OIL which i think is suitable , it was also recomended in one of mini worlds '' how to'' . just making sure that is correct before i carry on.

is this stuff ok ? and would it be good stuff to use for the engine build?

ash

[haz]

Alright ash,

You'll be needing some Hilomar (could be incorrect spelling) blue, which is a gasket sealent available from halfords/any motorfactors, you only use this on certain gaskets, gearbox and waterpump being 2 i can think of... Cam lube is also a good idea (but not essential), I got some kent stuff through when i bought a cam but i think its available to buy from minispares/minisport or whatever

Other than that, any cheap mineral oil is sound for general assembly.

Dont forget to be extra careful with your piston rings, if you snap one of those you're pretty screwed with those pistons!

Good luck mate!

[haz]

locktight too! Locktite/threadseal all your nuts and bolts that go into the block (excluding head studs and main bolts), that helps stop oil and water migrating around where you dont want it too... and its also good practise to threadlock the grubscrews on the crank.

[dklawson]

Most engine building guides and books will tell you to use an assembly lube. In the old days it was either gear oil or straight 30W. Now... there are specialized products. Your gear oil is probably OK as an assembly lube. The deal is, you want something that will stay in place as you build the rest of the engine and "be there" when you first turn the key. As mentioned, you want to make sure to apply a liberal coating to things like the inside of the oil pump to help it catch its prime. The cam followers and cam are other critical areas. However, don't forget that you also want to apply assembly lube to all the crankshaft bearings.

Sorry, I can't advise on gasket sealants. (Different materials on different sides of the world).

[Ethel]

Hylomar is good, use the non setting type with gaskets, though they should all seal unless it's specifically stated as needed. Don't use sealant on gaskets that are part of critical clearances (eg. the transfer gear case). Engine building lube that contains Molybdenum is good stuff though engine or gear oil will be ok as long as the engine is started not too long after being assembled. I'd be careful with Loctite as it effects torque settings, I wouldn't use it on highly torqued fasteners, especially if they have lock tabs, but it wouldn't be a bad idea on external fasteners, though copper grease would also provide corrosion protection and spring washers will keep the fasteners in place.

Quite a few A+ fasteners use "K" fasteners with built in, anti vibration, cone washers and thread lock (the blue paint stuff on the threads).

[ANON]

i've been using graphogen on engine re builds for years, its great stuff

also see if you gan get hold of pro-seal aviation gasket seal, looks like gluey thin gravy but is fantastic stuff

[dklawson]

The "pro-seal aviation gasket seal" sounds very much like what we (over here) call "Aviation-Form-A-Gasket". It's a dark brown watery sealant that is great for joints where you don't want heavy build up and where dis-assembly is anticipated (as it is non-hardening). I use it on most gaskets. However, it is not compatible with anything with alcohol in it. by the way, it is thin enough to use on the critical thickness gaskets mentioned by Ethel.

[Guess-Works.com]

Personally I hate the use of sealants on engine builds, they just end up clogging up the oil strainer as it all gravitates to the gearbox...

If you find a genuine rover gasket set for the engine and gearbox, the ONLY gasket which has a built in sealant ring is the diff end covers.

RTV should be used on the main diff cover on later A+ boxes as no gasket is used, and also to be used on the 1/2 moon to aid sealing.

everything else I put together with a brush of LM grease... which aids a disassembly if necessary....

This is just my opinion...

[ANON]

Personally I hate the use of sealants on engine builds, they just end up clogging up the oil strainer as it all gravitates to the gearbox...

i'm 99% certain the pro seal is fine if it gets into fuel/oil

[MINI 1]

allready got it coverd haz , pistons are in

thanks

[MINI 1]

cheers , i will be buying some sealent to use.

[mk1leg]

I use Hylomar Blue and never had an oil leak in all the motors that I built and I've built a few....................overe the past 30 years................