3 replies to this topic

[mk=john]

Hi

My Mini Cooper (1966 twin carb 998cc) has the original type 25D distributor with mechanical points. The timing was already adjusted on a rolling road with everything else.
However, I would like to replace the breaker points with an electronic ignition module. The car runs on positive earth, and after phoning Aldon Automotive, they say they can supply a module for it.

Anyway, if I mark the position of the distributor on the engine, and then, after the module is added to it, replace it in the same place using the mark, do i still need to reset my timing?

I want to avoid retiming as I don't think I can do it very well!
Also, do i need to get a different type of ignition coil or change anything else on the car?

Thanks
John

Edited by mk=john, 26 November 2008 - 07:00 PM.

[998dave]

Hi,

Chances are your ignition will need retiming, it isn't that hard to do.

Best bet would be to check it with a strobe before and after the change.

D

[philc]

you should be able to use your existing coil, you will be able to use your existing wires as it needs a positive and earth from the coil. You maybe able to get the ignition module cheaper if you shop around a little. minits for example

[dklawson]

You should re-time the car once you fit the Ignitor module. However, marking the dizzy prior to removal is not enough. You're replacing the points with electronics so the relative position of the parts INSIDE the dizzy is NOT going to be the same. Instead of paint marking, do the following.

Mark and remove the spark plugs (1-4).
Put the gearbox in neutral with the parking brake on.
On POSITIVE earth cars, hook a test lamp between the coil (+) (CB) terminal and an earthing point on the chassis.
Turn the engine over by hand (pull the fan belt or push the fan blades) until the dizzy rotor points to about 3:00 o'clock.
Look in the #1 spark plug hole to see if the piston is coming up. (it should be)
Switch on the ignition and return to the front of the car.
Pull the engine over SLOWLY as before.
When the points JUST open the test lamp will turn ON. STOP turning the engine the instant that happens.
Switch off the ignition and pull the distributor so you can install the Ignitor.
DO NOT move/turn the engine. DO NOT put the car in gear and roll the car. Do not disturb the position of anything.

The standard Ignitor module can be static timed. (Newer Ignitor II modules can NOT).

Take the distributor to the bench and fit the Ignitor module.
Once you've installed the Ignitor module, insert the distributor in the block and connect its wires.
The rotor should be pointing near the 1:00 or 2:00 o'clock position.
Your test lamp should still be connected as described above.
(IMPORTANT... For the next steps, disconnect and reconnect the Ignitor's power wire as needed for static timing. DO NOT leave the Ignitor powered up for more than two minutes at a time without the engine running. When the engine is not running either switch off the ignition OR disconnect the Ignitor's power wire. )
Switch the ignition on then return to the front of the car.
Turn the distributor first counterclockwise until the test lamp goes OFF.
Keep turning a little bit past where the lamp goes off (maybe 10 degrees), then stop.
SLOWLY turn the distributor clockwise. STOP the instant the test lamp turns on.
Turn the ignition off, then return to the front of the car and tighten the dizzy clamp.

You have just set the Ignitor's static timing to exactly match what you had with the points (within a degree or so). This will preserve your rolling road tuning.

The warning above about not leaving the power on the Ignitor with the engine not running is important NOT JUST FOR TUNING but any time you are working on the car OR if you have any accessories that require you to have the ignition turned on with the engine off. Ignitor modules are NOT designed to carry 100% of the coil current 100% of the time. With the engine running the coil is turned OFF a significant portion of the time.

Edited by dklawson, 26 November 2008 - 09:50 PM.