Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Temp Gauge Not Working


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 SurreySprite

SurreySprite

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 162 posts
  • Local Club: LSMOC

Posted 27 November 2008 - 10:16 AM

Morning all,

I bought my first mini last night.... It is a 94 (L-Reg) Sprite 1275cc on carbs. 36K on the clock.

Got a few bits of work which need doing but the bodywork is not too bad at all.

I seem to have a problem with the temperature gauge in that it doesn't move.

Are there any basic check i should carry out first before i get it looked at by a mechanic?

Thanks, :P
James

#2 Guess-Works.com

Guess-Works.com

    Gearbox Guru

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 19,838 posts
  • Local Club: Rugby Classic Mini Owners Club

Posted 27 November 2008 - 10:26 AM

yes, switch the ignition on, remove the wire from the sender ( on the front of the head under the thermostat ), ground the wire, the temp gauge should show full sweep to HOT.

Does the fuel gauge work ?

If neither temp and fuel work then it's likely to be the voltage regulator.

Edited by GuessWorks.co.uk, 27 November 2008 - 10:27 AM.


#3 SurreySprite

SurreySprite

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 162 posts
  • Local Club: LSMOC

Posted 27 November 2008 - 10:34 AM

yes, switch the ignition on, remove the wire from the sender ( on the front of the head under the thermostat ), ground the wire, the temp gauge should show full sweep to HOT.

Does the fuel gauge work ?

If neither temp and fuel work then it's likely to be the voltage regulator.


The fuel gauge does work.

Thanks for your suggestion i will try it and see if the gauge functions. If it does then i guess i have a thermostat problem?

#4 Guess-Works.com

Guess-Works.com

    Gearbox Guru

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 19,838 posts
  • Local Club: Rugby Classic Mini Owners Club

Posted 27 November 2008 - 10:37 AM

Well if it does, then first check the engine is actually getting up to temperature... however it could be the sender.

If the thermostat is stuck open then this would give the same symptoms.

#5 JohnGordon

JohnGordon

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 966 posts
  • Location: Burnley, Lancashire
  • Local Club: N.W Mini's / O.D.M.C

Posted 27 November 2008 - 10:37 AM

If the gauge works once you have tried that then you need to change the temp sender, (The little thing you took the wires off) its just unscrews, then screw your new one in and job done!

#6 taffy1967

taffy1967

    Whovian

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,896 posts
  • Local Club: South Wales Minis

Posted 27 November 2008 - 03:57 PM

If the test doesn't work then the bad news is later Nippon Seiki clocks don't have removable voltage stabilisers (unlike classic 'Smiths' instruments).

So like in the case with my non working temp gauge, I assume the clocks will need fixing by a specialist such as Speedy Cables?

Edited by taffy1967, 27 November 2008 - 03:58 PM.


#7 SurreySprite

SurreySprite

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 162 posts
  • Local Club: LSMOC

Posted 28 November 2008 - 09:42 AM

If the test doesn't work then the bad news is later Nippon Seiki clocks don't have removable voltage stabilisers (unlike classic 'Smiths' instruments).

So like in the case with my non working temp gauge, I assume the clocks will need fixing by a specialist such as Speedy Cables?


Had a look last night and wasn't entirely sure where the thermostat was. Where i think it is has two connectors going into it...one above the other. There was also a single plastic connector about 2 inches below on the block. So i was not sure which one to ground.

Going to replace the thermostat tomorrow morning and see if that solves it. the gauge only gets top the top of cold even though i was driving it for 2 hours. Noticed in the service history that it had the temp sender replaced in Jan 2007.

#8 94Sprite

94Sprite

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 52 posts

Posted 28 November 2008 - 10:24 AM

I had this exact same problem, on near enough the exact same car. Turned out it the problem was the super fiddly little wires on the back of the needle mechanism inside the dash cluster. One end of it had come off and needed (carefully!) soldering back on...

#9 THE ANORAK

THE ANORAK

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,946 posts
  • Location: rugby

Posted 28 November 2008 - 10:29 AM

If the test doesn't work then the bad news is later Nippon Seiki clocks don't have removable voltage stabilisers (unlike classic 'Smiths' instruments).

So like in the case with my non working temp gauge, I assume the clocks will need fixing by a specialist such as Speedy Cables?


mmm, not sure about that one mate. a few years back i did a straight swap with a mate for my wooden dash and his standard set up. to fit a wooden dash you have to trim the clock housing and as the clocks on the cooper are a different colour (and to retain the correct mileage) we had to swap the inner dials over in the two clock housings. I'm 100% positive that all the gauges were removable as separate items.

i see no reason why your cooper is any different to mine, not sure about a 94 car :lol:

#10 SurreySprite

SurreySprite

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 162 posts
  • Local Club: LSMOC

Posted 28 November 2008 - 10:57 AM

If the test doesn't work then the bad news is later Nippon Seiki clocks don't have removable voltage stabilisers (unlike classic 'Smiths' instruments).

So like in the case with my non working temp gauge, I assume the clocks will need fixing by a specialist such as Speedy Cables?


mmm, not sure about that one mate. a few years back i did a straight swap with a mate for my wooden dash and his standard set up. to fit a wooden dash you have to trim the clock housing and as the clocks on the cooper are a different colour (and to retain the correct mileage) we had to swap the inner dials over in the two clock housings. I'm 100% positive that all the gauges were removable as separate items.

i see no reason why your cooper is any different to mine, not sure about a 94 car :P


Thanks guys for your advice everyone. Sprite94, nice to know someone has the same model and same problem as me :lol:

So is it behind the dash i am should look? Is there a diagram in my haynes manaul? My mechanical knowledge is still in its infancy but i am a dab hand with a soldering iron.....i used to solder wires onto SMT resitors on motherboards so voltage test could be done.

#11 SurreySprite

SurreySprite

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 162 posts
  • Local Club: LSMOC

Posted 28 November 2008 - 12:09 PM

Can anyone tell me if i am looking in the right place?

There appears to be a hose which goes into a unit on the right of the cylinder head. Underneath it has 2 wires on there,, one above the other, one appears to have a T-piece. Is it one of these i should be shorting to the engine block?

Can't post a pic as don't have a camera yet.

Thanks,
James

#12 taffy1967

taffy1967

    Whovian

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,896 posts
  • Local Club: South Wales Minis

Posted 28 November 2008 - 07:32 PM

There was also a single plastic connector about 2 inches below on the block. So i was not sure which one to ground.


I'd say that was your temp sender. So stick a paper clip in that plastic connector (spade connector) and try shorting it against the block.

If your temp gauge is moving a bit, then I'd just replace the temp sender as it may be faulty.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users