15 replies to this topic

[Gibbo]

the mini has been driving funny for a while now, the tyres have been eaten alive on the inside and the steerign wheel could be turned through 45 degrees without the wheels doing a thing. I've got a new steering rack to fit and have managed to get the old one out, but can't get enough clearance to get the U-bolts back on, ive managed to drop the subframe about 40mm but can't get it to go anymore, and dropping it down doesn't really help much with the U-bolts anyway as they need space towards the front of the car if you get what I mean not vertically, and dropping the subframe doesn't really help. I've undone the bottom sub frame bolts and the tower mounts, the engine tie rod to the cylinder head the front sub frame bolts are loosened, and i've taken the shock absorbers are off at the top. anything else that people can think of to get more?

also having had a look at the old steering rack now there doesn't seem to be anything loose when turning it by hand as you'd expect there to be if it was a fault? anything else that could cause this steering effect, its not bearings or ball joints or anything like that either. steering column? possible?

If not I suppose i'll find out when I can get the new rack in.

just any info from anyone whos done a steering rack would be great. even just a basic list of things to do?

the car is a multipoint injection P-reg cooper.

cheers for anything you guys have to offer.

[Purple Tom]

Did you make sure that the U-bolt nuts were tight before you removed the rack? I had a similar problem with my Cooper, in that the handling was erratic when hard cornering. It turned out to be the steering rack moving in the u-bolts, so I tightened them up to the correct torque and it solved all the problems.

[Dan]

Do you have the plastic packing strips on the U-bolts. They are small strips of very thin plastic about an inch wide and three inches long which sit on the U-bolts and wrap around the rack. They look pointless but are very important in stopping the rack moving about, they are now NLA so if you don't have any you may have trouble finding some. Or it could be the rack was loose, the track rod ends are worn or loose, the steering arms are loose or missing their dowels, the column bushes could be worn, the hub or pinion splines could be worn. There's many possible causes but now the car's in bits it's hard to tell. As for getting your rack in, try fitting the bolts on to the rack and holding them in place with tape, then sliding the whole thing in from the side. That way you'll need less clearance.

[minimadjonesy]

also, check the splines inside the end of your steering column! Went to IMM in Norfolk last year as a passenger in a car which had, to be quite frank, no steering at all! when we managed to get back to Swindon (have no idea how) we found out that the splines in the column had worn off on one side!

[Gibbo]

splines in the column will def be worth a look.

as for the packing strips, I hadn't realised they were so important, will make sure they are back on when I put it back together. so they go inbetween the column and the bolts?

don't think the ubolts were loose when I took it out, it would explain the looseness, although I have a feeling that the steering vanished as the wheels passed straight, which doesn't really make much sense.

as for getting the new rack in, i've been pushing it in from the side but the U-bolt by the column really does have a snug fit, combined with stopping it from getting forced around the rack and moving etc, whilst slotting the pinion in its a bit of a nightmare, I think its just a case of a lot of patients, time and getting very lucky. could do with more clearance from the subframe though, forwards not down. just don't think thats possible.

cheers for the ideas guys.

[Dan]

Yes, the packing strips sit between the rack and the flat section of the U-bolt wrapping around the rack. Don't break your U-bolts as the flatened U-bolts are also NLA.

[Gibbo]

do you ever do one of those jobs on your car that you just wish you'd paid someone to do?

and after all this it'll probably just turn out to be a lose bolt or steering column teeth. :nugget:

[Gibbo]

erm ok, so about those packing strips, just how important are they, and do they simply provide grip for the U-bolt? and any ideas as to an alternative as one of them is split where it got caught on the away out.

this job just gets better and better.

[Dan]

That's what they do! Try phoning round the suppliers like Moss or Minispares, they might still have some in stock. If not then try to find some thick vinyl with the same sort of surface friction I suppose.

[Guess-Works.com]

I use an old car innertube for things like that, cut a strip the right length, hole punch each end, and away you go...

[Gibbo]

cheers again guys.

don't suppose anyone in sussex wants to come round and finish the job for me as i'm just about fed up with it. :grin:

[Big_Adam]

hello, er... i know this is a bit rude of me but can anyone tell me how to change a steering rack. i looked through the haynes book but all i found was how to do everything but change a steering rack, sorry to kinda try and hijack the tread Gibbo,

[miniman5]

wouldnt nakerd track rod ends make the car like this?

[Gibbo]

yes it would miniman5, but it isn't them, but oh well job done now and track rod end replaced and it all works fine, not sure exaclty what was wrong, probably just loose U-bolts or something simple but oh well. the problem is now for some reason teh bonnet catch wont hold, of all the things i've spent 3 weekends working on the steering rack and now the bonnet wont hold shut! are there any problems that come up quite often with the catches it seems fine to me? it just wont engage?

and adam it is in the haynes section 10 number 26 or around there under rack and pinion.

basically depending on the year of the car undo the subframe mount tower bolts, on a 96 they are 1" 5/16 hex bolt at some point they changed to this from 2 smaller bolts, these are located at the rear corners under the bonnet, then take the wheels off (you will need the car jacked up from anywhere but the front subframe) undo the track rod ends from the rack and the top suspension strut bolt, take off the steering column by undoing the bolt holding it to the dash and the bolt holding it to the pinion right down the bottom, undo the U-bolts under the carpet. in the engine bay with the engine supported on a jack undo the engine stabiliser bar (just for good measure) and then under the car undo the rear subframe bolts 2 bolts either side, and loosen the front bolts that go through the front of the car by the tie rods. lower the subframe/engine down, haynes stated 76mm but I could only get around 40mm, then reach in and remove the Ubolts from either and pull the steering rack out. As in haynes refitting is a reversal of removal, maybe not quite as easy but...

make sure you either put the track rod ends back with exactly the same number of turns or get the tracking done straight away! if you want to change the track rod ends they are pretty obvious how to do with a bit of brute force or a ball joint seperator, and only around a fiver each so probably worth it whilst your there.

probably full of errors and mistakes but this is how I got it done.

[Big_Adam]

and adam it is in the haynes section 10 number 26 or around there under rack and pinion.

basically depending on the year of the car undo the subframe mount tower bolts, on a 96 they are 1" 5/16 hex bolt at some point they changed to this from 2 smaller bolts, these are located at the rear corners under the bonnet, then take the wheels off (you will need the car jacked up from anywhere but the front subframe) undo the track rod ends from the rack and the top suspension strut bolt, take off the steering column by undoing the bolt holding it to the dash and the bolt holding it to the pinion right down the bottom, undo the U-bolts under the carpet. in the engine bay with the engine supported on a jack undo the engine stabiliser bar (just for good measure) and then under the car undo the rear subframe bolts 2 bolts either side, and loosen the front bolts that go through the front of the car by the tie rods. lower the subframe/engine down, haynes stated 76mm but I could only get around 40mm, then reach in and remove the Ubolts from either and pull the steering rack out. As in haynes refitting is a reversal of removal, maybe not quite as easy but...

make sure you either put the track rod ends back with exactly the same number of turns or get the tracking done straight away! if you want to change the track rod ends they are pretty obvious how to do with a bit of brute force or a ball joint seperator, and only around a fiver each so probably worth it whilst your there.

probably full of errors and mistakes but this is how I got it done.

Cool, thanks Gibbo. Somehow i think i'm gonna screw it up but got nothing better to do :grin:

Also in case you were wondering it's an 1982 mini

Thanks again