
Replace Corroded Brake/fuel Pipes...
Started by
robtheplod
, Dec 06 2008 03:20 PM
4 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 06 December 2008 - 03:20 PM
Model: Equinox
Year: 1996
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):
This has just been on a ramp for it's first inspection after buying it - looks like I have some corroded brake and fuel pipes (around the filter). As I'm a newbie still I'm after advice on the type of job this is - is it a garage only job, or one that is possible to be done myself with a Haynes guide etc... (fairly practical guy!) ... do these things tend to be domino in that you find you then need new brakes to connect to etc..??
any insight would be greatfully received!!
Any non-standard parts that might be involved with the problem? Me??!
Year: 1996
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):
This has just been on a ramp for it's first inspection after buying it - looks like I have some corroded brake and fuel pipes (around the filter). As I'm a newbie still I'm after advice on the type of job this is - is it a garage only job, or one that is possible to be done myself with a Haynes guide etc... (fairly practical guy!) ... do these things tend to be domino in that you find you then need new brakes to connect to etc..??
any insight would be greatfully received!!
Any non-standard parts that might be involved with the problem? Me??!
#2
Posted 06 December 2008 - 03:28 PM
Normally a fairly easy job, if its the main brake pipe that runs the length of the car, can be a bit tricky threading it up through the front subframe and round bulkhead.
Possible headaches, snapped bleed nipples usual the very small ones on the rear, new cylinders are cheap enough though.
Obviously fuel pipes carry a risk with flamable liquid. So good idea to run tank as dry as possible before attempting repairs, then syphon remainder out.
Possible headaches, snapped bleed nipples usual the very small ones on the rear, new cylinders are cheap enough though.
Obviously fuel pipes carry a risk with flamable liquid. So good idea to run tank as dry as possible before attempting repairs, then syphon remainder out.
#3
Posted 07 December 2008 - 02:08 PM
I've just seen the advisory on the previous MOT and it states the 'front-rear brake pipe is corroded' - looks like i'll have to sort by next November, but keen to do it before then. Is it worth looking at the whole braking system when doing this, so possibly replacing front disks/rear drums etc...??
#4
Posted 07 December 2008 - 02:13 PM
I've just seen the advisory on the previous MOT and it states the 'front-rear brake pipe is corroded' - looks like i'll have to sort by next November, but keen to do it before then. Is it worth looking at the whole braking system when doing this, so possibly replacing front disks/rear drums etc...??
Won't effect the discs 'n drums but it would make sense to fettle anything remotely dodgy on the hydraulics to save having to bleed the brakes again. It will cost you next to nothing extra if you make your own brake pipes.
#5
Posted 07 December 2008 - 03:47 PM
It can turn into a bit of a job if things wont undo easily.
I replaced the wheel cylinder on my 73 MG Midget, (basically a rear drive Mini when it comes to technical matters, (sort of)), last year and ended up replacing the whole braking system from the rear flexi backwards. The union, (ie the nut on the end of a length of brake pipe), was corroded and twisted the pipe as I undid it. Everything else was corroded and it ended up being easier to to replace the lot. BUT I now know how easy it is to make up new brake pipes, (you need access to a brake flaring kit), and I also know that my system is bob-on. One bit of advice though is to soak everything with a thread, especially the front caliper bleed nibbles in release oil. I sheared one off and ended up laying out for a recon caliper, (another £40), when bleeding the system. I can also recommend the Gunsons Easibleed kits - eliminated that farce with your dad with the "pedal down", "What", "PEDAL DOWN" "WHAT!!" business.
Better to learn how to do these jobs. Much cheaper in the long run and gives you a great sense of satisfaction.....
I replaced the wheel cylinder on my 73 MG Midget, (basically a rear drive Mini when it comes to technical matters, (sort of)), last year and ended up replacing the whole braking system from the rear flexi backwards. The union, (ie the nut on the end of a length of brake pipe), was corroded and twisted the pipe as I undid it. Everything else was corroded and it ended up being easier to to replace the lot. BUT I now know how easy it is to make up new brake pipes, (you need access to a brake flaring kit), and I also know that my system is bob-on. One bit of advice though is to soak everything with a thread, especially the front caliper bleed nibbles in release oil. I sheared one off and ended up laying out for a recon caliper, (another £40), when bleeding the system. I can also recommend the Gunsons Easibleed kits - eliminated that farce with your dad with the "pedal down", "What", "PEDAL DOWN" "WHAT!!" business.
Better to learn how to do these jobs. Much cheaper in the long run and gives you a great sense of satisfaction.....
Edited by zodiac123, 07 December 2008 - 03:48 PM.
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