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Rusty Rusty Rust...


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#1 binge

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 12:05 AM

:tongue:

Ok, Ive just had a thinking moment. And Somthing reminded me of the time I spent de-rusting the Ar$e of my car the other day...

Time for some technical terms now. :)

You know the pannel under the rear bumper which curls in towards the car.
Well just wondering if this is a part what rusts alot on minis because I wobbled my bumper to see if it was that making the squeeky noises. And to my dis-belief. Lumps of rust was falling out. :lol:

So when I got home, I took the chrome bumper off, And Rust was EVERYWHERE on the under pannel.

So out came the sand paper, Took it back to bare metal. Found myself a small hole, Nothing major though as it dosent go "inside" the car. The other side of the pannel is just somwhere under the car.

So Ive Hammerite painted the whole pannel. (Blue)
Then ive gone over it in colour coded spray paint. and have a bit :grin: now because its rust-free!

yes, just another pointless thread from me. But just to discuss rust. and how do you fight it?

<|Ben|>

#2 mattvallins

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 12:16 AM

Waxoyl or dynitrol (sp?) are the best ways of stopping it underneath, other than that, we all have to live with it :lol:

#3 BlAck0ut

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 12:18 AM

You know the pannel under the rear bumper which curls in towards the car.


Rear Valence

So Ive Hammerite painted the whole pannel. (Blue)
Then ive gone over it in colour coded spray paint. and have a bit  now because its rust-free


Oh dear.. read the tin hammerite takes i think 6-8 weeks to cure before your even supose to use a 2nd coat. Hammerite has gotta be one of the worst paints ever and there are far better heavy dute paints to use.

You have to wait 6-8 weeks just for a 2nd coat let alone applying other paints over the top...

be careful dude

edit:

yes, just another pointless thread from me. But just to discuss rust. and how do you fight it?


You did well to take it down to bare clean metal and then coat it though :wink:

#4 miniman5

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 08:51 AM

i use red oxide or as its known to the oldies red led.

#5 Ria

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 09:45 AM

I have a 1997 Cooper... he's had replaced due to rust:

2 wings (inner and outer)
Scuttle
2 A-panels
front panel
inner and outer sills

He now needs:

Boot floor repair
New boot lid
2 new doors
Repair to underneath rear opening window
Rear valance

:)

Vinster the rusty shed :lol:

#6 Sam

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 10:10 AM

Wouldn't be too surprised if the rust came back in a few months. The only proper way to cure rust is to cut it out, and then weld a new panel in.

#7 mattvallins

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 10:16 AM

But then the welds rust :sad:

#8 Ria

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 10:29 AM

Can it actually be cured though... or can we only prolong the life of the metal???

#9 Jammy

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 10:33 AM

***Waiting for Ade to come in and make a comment about a fibreglass shell***




**Remembers Ade has to catch up with work for the next couple of days**





*Runs off to spam Ades project thread.....*

#10 BlAck0ut

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 01:54 PM

:lol: Jammy :)

#11 mini_sam

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 02:03 PM

the best way to avoid it is...well...dont get a mini! :nugget: :lol:

#12 m3ntalist

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Posted 13 August 2005 - 02:10 PM

yeah ive only had my car a year and rust spots everywhere is ruining my sleep. I dont know what to do !

I will get advice when I meet everyone I think before its winter

#13 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 13 August 2005 - 02:18 PM

To be honest, if you want a mini with less rust, getn one made before 1985 ish... the best ones are the 70's... must be something to do with the cheap metal rover used...

If you want to get rid of the rust though, the only realy way is (as has been said above ) cut it out.

If you every get the opportunity to strip the car to the shell... do it, you'll then be able to realy protect the car... Loads of rust inhibiting primer, stonechip/shutz on the bottom.

#14 Sam

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Posted 13 August 2005 - 03:09 PM

To be honest, if you want a mini with less rust, getn one made before 1985 ish... the best ones are the 70's... must be something to do with the cheap metal rover used...

Totally agree with that! All of my clubmans have been (pretty much) solid. And they are 30+ years old.

Same can't be said with my 1991 Studio 2. Rust everywhere, rotten sills, inner sills, wings, boot floor, front foot area etc.

#15 Sprocket

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Posted 14 August 2005 - 12:00 AM

To be honest, if you want a mini with less rust, getn one made before 1985 ish... the best ones are the 70's... must be something to do with the cheap metal rover used...

Totally agree with that! All of my clubmans have been (pretty much) solid. And they are 30+ years old.

Same can't be said with my 1991 Studio 2. Rust everywhere, rotten sills, inner sills, wings, boot floor, front foot area etc.

I was under the impression that the latest Bodys were built using the same steel( light galv) and the same anti corrosion paints and body seals as every other Rover. But maybe thats the reason of all corrosion problems; Rover :blink:

The best way to prevent corrosion is to strip back the whole shell to bright steel, acid etch prime it, cut out and replace the rust, lead seal all panel joints as this is where the rust propagates and prime with zinc rich primer. Use penty of a proprietry cavity wax for all closed panel sections

I'm pretty sure that if the whole shell is lead sealed that it won't rust for a long time. And not be that much heavier.




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