7 replies to this topic

[katanajim]

Hi all,

I have managed to free off the nut and locking plate that i thought secured the wheel to the steering column but am still unable to remove the wheel from the column splines (i am guessing it's been on there a while or maybe the splines were rough?)

Any advice on how I can get the steering wheel off? - i don't want to apply too much brute force / ignorance as i am concerned this may cause damage further down the column / steering rack? I've pulled and wiggled as much as i can and used gentle hammer taps with a drive from behind but to no avail. The wheel is one of the rubber coated original mini ones so i am concerned that applying heat (via a blowtorch) could see the wheel trashed (not what I want). Can anyone pass on advice on how they've done it in the past? I've coated liberally in WD40 to see if that can work it's magic. Is there a non naked flame way of getting heat into the wheel? would a soldering iron work?

The wheel needs to come off as my indicators / LH column stalk switches have gone on the fritz (main beam on when turning left / unable to switch between main and dipped)

Appreciate all and any comments - ta
Jim
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Model: 1971 - 1275 (running 1991 copper engine and gbox)
Year:1971/|1991
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible): see above



Any non-standard parts that might be involved with the problem? No - all looks standard to me

[koomey]

put the nut back on for a few turns ( make sure its on there, but hand tight will suffice) , use the palms of your hands to `tap` the wheel from behind towards you, this will shock it free.( plain old brute force )
be extra extra careful to make sure the nut is on enough so that wheel wont hit you in the face when you tap it !

hope this makes sense

[GraemeC]

He beat me with the nut warning! But..

Before you go any further wind the nut back on a couple of turns - this will stop the wheel breaking free suddenly and re-arranging your face!

After that your approachis the norm, maybe used a soft faced mallet to give it some more persuasive blows from behind? Proper penetrating fluid will get in better that WD40. Failing all that you will brobably need a puller such as this:
http://www.machinema...utomotive-tools

Edited by GraemeC, 11 December 2008 - 01:17 PM.

[sprintmini]

You cant do more than you have already been doing,it will eventually free itself and pop off.
Just keep pushing/pulling it is on there quite tight dont be afraid of it.
One tip though put the nut back on a couple of threads just enough to hold the wheel should it come off,saves smashing yourself in the face when the wheel does come off.(the voice of experience)


Too late again...

Edited by sprintmini, 11 December 2008 - 01:20 PM.

[nomininolife]

Either that or use a three legged puller, that definately works.



David

[Dan]

Can't do any more? Errm,

Original steering wheels have puller holes in them for this purpose. These will either be threaded holes in the wheel centre or notches in the back of the moulding where the legs of a three legged puller will hold. What type of puller is need (leg puller or flywheel puller type) depends on the age of the wheel. Be careful with the puller though and leave the nut on the column a little.

[Disco Dan]

That is good advice!!! I broke my nose removing a steering wheel once... (young and dumb)

It will come off - eat your weetabix and keep trying!!!

[taffy1967]

I just tap mine from behind with a rubber mallet, whilst I lay my arm across it so it doesn't smack me in the face.