1275 carb!!
dodgy engine mounts!
had a search and cant fine any info of how to change my minis engine mounts! pics would be bl00dy handy people!
How To Change Engine Mounts? Photos Anyone?
Started by
Domeo_Jones
, Dec 12 2008 03:59 PM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Domeo_Jones
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Posted 12 December 2008 - 03:59 PM
1993 ex rio!!!!
1275 carb!!
dodgy engine mounts!
had a search and cant fine any info of how to change my minis engine mounts! pics would be bl00dy handy people!
1275 carb!!
dodgy engine mounts!
had a search and cant fine any info of how to change my minis engine mounts! pics would be bl00dy handy people!
#2
Guess-Works.com
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Posted 12 December 2008 - 04:01 PM
two choices, engine out, makes it easy...
or, support the engine and do one side at a time... you will need to remove the clutch cover to replace the o/s one, and likewise you will need to remove the radiator and it's bracket to do the ns one...
or, support the engine and do one side at a time... you will need to remove the clutch cover to replace the o/s one, and likewise you will need to remove the radiator and it's bracket to do the ns one...
#3
Domeo_Jones
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Posted 12 December 2008 - 04:26 PM
oh your joking i had the rad out last wknd and changed all the coolant! gay! is it a hard job or just the usual fiddly tight cramped job? loltwo choices, engine out, makes it easy...
or, support the engine and do one side at a time... you will need to remove the clutch cover to replace the o/s one, and likewise you will need to remove the radiator and it's bracket to do the ns one...
#4
Pauly
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Posted 12 December 2008 - 08:40 PM
Can be fiddly getting the new mounts to line back up, just need to push down and muscle the engine down into the subframe, then a drift or screwdriver to line the mounts.
Paul.
Paul.
#5
Disco Dan
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Posted 12 December 2008 - 09:16 PM
Remove the engine stabilizer mount at the top! Support the engine using a floor jack.
As others said you will need to remove rad and clutch cover. Be very careful not to jack it up too much once you have one side in - else you will tear the rubber off the new mount and have to replace it again! Easier to attach mounts to engine first and then line up to subframe - you wont be able to line holes up so once you pushed and wiggled as much as you can you should be able to get a flat head screwdriver through both holes from through the wheel arches, use it as a lever and 'pull' it down while you put the bolt in. Dont put the nuts on tight until you have got both sides in - you need all the 'wiggle' room you can get.
I did my mounts a couple of weeks ago!
Best time to replace your stabilizer mounts while your in there....
As others said you will need to remove rad and clutch cover. Be very careful not to jack it up too much once you have one side in - else you will tear the rubber off the new mount and have to replace it again! Easier to attach mounts to engine first and then line up to subframe - you wont be able to line holes up so once you pushed and wiggled as much as you can you should be able to get a flat head screwdriver through both holes from through the wheel arches, use it as a lever and 'pull' it down while you put the bolt in. Dont put the nuts on tight until you have got both sides in - you need all the 'wiggle' room you can get.
I did my mounts a couple of weeks ago!
Best time to replace your stabilizer mounts while your in there....
#6
Disco Dan
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Posted 12 December 2008 - 09:18 PM
Remove the engine stabilizer mount at the top! Support the engine using a floor jack.
As others said you will need to remove rad and clutch cover. Be very careful not to jack it up too much once you have one side in - else you will tear the rubber off the new mount and have to replace it again! Easier to attach mounts to engine first and then line up to subframe - you wont be able to line holes up so once you pushed and wiggled as much as you can you should be able to get a flat head screwdriver through both holes from through the wheel arches, use it as a lever and 'pull' it down while you put the bolt in. Dont put the nuts on tight until you have got both sides in - you need all the 'wiggle' room you can get.
I did my mounts a couple of weeks ago!
Best time to replace your stabilizer mounts while your in there....
As others said you will need to remove rad and clutch cover. Be very careful not to jack it up too much once you have one side in - else you will tear the rubber off the new mount and have to replace it again! Easier to attach mounts to engine first and then line up to subframe - you wont be able to line holes up so once you pushed and wiggled as much as you can you should be able to get a flat head screwdriver through both holes from through the wheel arches, use it as a lever and 'pull' it down while you put the bolt in. Dont put the nuts on tight until you have got both sides in - you need all the 'wiggle' room you can get.
I did my mounts a couple of weeks ago!
Best time to replace your stabilizer mounts while your in there....
#7
minidaves
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Posted 12 December 2008 - 09:29 PM
take the clucth cover off your having a laugh,
1st rule of engine mounts is use gen mounts the patten ones are a git to fit in my veiw. the rad you can lift up enough so u only lose alittle coolant
simple process its a one side at a time
tools
a trolly jack
1/2 inch spanners and sockets
7/16 socket and spanner
screwdriver
couple of hours of time
more or less as discribed about
1st rule of engine mounts is use gen mounts the patten ones are a git to fit in my veiw. the rad you can lift up enough so u only lose alittle coolant
simple process its a one side at a time
tools
a trolly jack
1/2 inch spanners and sockets
7/16 socket and spanner
screwdriver
couple of hours of time
more or less as discribed about
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