17 replies to this topic

[Kam]

New head hasn't got a bypass and this pump was bought beforehand, so will the above work (or not actually!)

Bolt is quite a tight fit with loctite gasket sealant all over the thread and loctite superglue around the mating face on the bolt to pump, will this be ok to use as I'm not sure what pressure the pump works at but I'm guessing the above should be enough?

Not temporary but permanent.

[liirge]

You Threaded the hole in the water pump?

[Retro_10s]

I wouldn't count on it working for very long if you didn't cut a thread the bypass take off properly. Hot water under pressure is exceptionally good at penetrating.... However,... you can rely on that bolt to rust with time,... which might be its saving grace if it's rusts in place

Perhaps you could get it TIG'd up?

[Shifty]

That looks like a recipe for failure, a new water pump is less that £20.

If your "Modified" one leaks you're gonna have the strip everything off to replace it again.

Even worse if it does leak, then you'll lose all your coolant and risk overheating the engine.

If you're intent on not buying a new pump then the better way would be to use a short length of heater hose, with a bolt/blanking plug, in the end instead.

[Kam]

I was gonna get a new pump but thought I'd see if this one could still be used, didn't cut a thread in the take off.

Its not on the car yet anyway

Edited by Kam, 19 December 2008 - 06:45 PM.

[1984mini25]

It will work, providing you tap a tread in the water pump bypass take off and warp some plummers tape round the new bolt.

Well it’s what i did to mine when I changed the head which didn’t have the bypass take off drilled about 3 years ago and haven’t had any problems.

[macfoot]

you can get the blanking plug from minisport for that

[bert998]

You'd be better off fitting the bypass hose and putting the bolt in that with a jubilee clip in it i'd have thought as the rubber will seal around it better.

[Kam]

I have seen the blanking plugs but as I didnt want to order just one thing at £6 I'd thought I'd see if anything could be done with my one.

I'll probably get a non-bypass pump now.

Cheers

[dklawson]

Ummm... that bolt as a plug is really not a problem as long as you tapped the water pump and if you apply sealant.

Take 1984mini25's advice and put a wrap or two of Teflon tape on the threads OR use a good non-hardening gasket sealant on the threads before inserting the bolt. If you use non-hardening gasket sealant, allow enough time for it to cure a bit and thicken.

Again, as long as you tapped the pump and apply some form of sealant, your plug will work OK. Don't forget that there are drain plugs on some blocks and petcocks threaded into radiators.

[rozzer1275]

I done simular i run a M 8 tap down it the put an M 8 bolt in with epoxy (araldite) its been on there for about 70,000 miles so far.

I use this technique for pressure testing.

Edited by rozzer1275, 19 December 2008 - 11:18 PM.

[liirge]

Yer like i said earlier, Tapping the pump and putting the bolt in with either Gasket Sealer, Glue (araldite) remember the temperature will cause most glues to start to melt again, or a good dose of plumbers tape!
you could probably get away with that bolt for a little while, however the last thing you want is on the motorway or on the way to work for it suddenly start leaking,i also guess in the worst case scenario it could pop out under pressure, go through the fan and take out the radiator, and knowing mini's this will all happen on the way to something important like a wedding or a job interview!
Its not hard to just tap a thread into the pump it will take about 5 to 10 minutes, when tapping a thread remember its one rotation forwards and then half backwards, and so on.

Alastair

[dklawson]

remember the temperature will cause most glues to start to melt again

Just a minor point here. Epoxies are a two component glue which does not melt under heat. If you do get them hot enough to break down, you've got other problems to worry about.

[Ethel]

I thought epoxies softened at about 70degs C? Have you checked there's enough room for the bolt head between the pump and head? I think an unthreaded plug would stay put with the right adhesive the radiator cap will blow at 14 psi, or there abouts so that's less than 2lb's force pushing your plug out.

A thread would still be better tho'.

[dklawson]

I thought epoxies softened at about 70degs C?

As with all things, I guess it's what grade or brand you choose to use.

Products like "5 Minute" or fast-cure epoxies will have lower service temperatures. The most common brand in the U.S. is Devcon (part of the Permatex/Henkel family). It is rated up to 200oF so that would be around 90oC?

However, I don't use 5-minute epoxies. They do not have the peel or shear strength I typically want. Though this is rather a "redneck" product, I use an epoxy called "J-B Weld". It is a filled epoxy that takes 24 hours to cure. It has a maximum service temperature of 500oF (whatever that is in oC I don't know). They recommend baking a part at over 600oF if you want to disassemble or remove the cured J-B Weld. I'm sure the U.K. has similar high-performance products.

More info than you want....
http://www.jbweld.net/index.php

Edited by dklawson, 20 December 2008 - 07:33 PM.