8 replies to this topic

[kami]

1275 Mini Racing Flame:
[b]1989[b]
I've just fitted electronic ignition onto the mini after it broke down on me recently, thinking it was points and condensor that I burnt out.

It seems the original problem that I thought was the ignition wasn't actually the real problem.

The car still died on me after an hours driving today. As before, it drove great and then sputtered to a halt, leave 10 mins and would drive great again.
I've ruled out dizzy as it's now converted to electronic.
I've changed the carb needle to a bigger needle as it was still using the 1098 needle. The car is quicker again with this, but it still died on me 2 miles down the road when I got going again. (Float chamber is full)

I've noticed that the car ran fine and all the indicators, lights etc worked, but then something really strange happens. The front passanger indicator stops working while the rest still work ok and then the car chucks it.
Leave it 10 mins, and the car starts again and runs fine and all the indicators work again. Then the same thing happens all over!

Eventually the battery ends up flat.

I've checked for loose wires that may short onto the body and tidied up any stray wires that were getting in the way of the engine bay but still no joy.

Any ideas?

Edited by kami, 21 December 2008 - 11:10 AM.

[Ethel]

Have a good look at the wiring on the solenoid. The ignition switch is another possibility, you could make up a "hot wire" to replace & test it - short "W" of wire with 3 connectors, link the brown & white wires on the terminal block in place of the switch and tough the 3rd terminal to red/white to crank the engine, then plug it in to the accessory feed. Just pull the wire off to stop.

[primus90909]

Your coil is broken mate, it gets hot and the coils inside begin to fail, when they cool down they're fine again. Get a new electronic ignition coil and you should be fine.

[Retro_10s]

Don't go replacing anything unless your certain a part is broken. I would suggest spending £10 on a basic multimeter which will allow you to check for voltage etc... invaluable when faultfinding and saves you a lot of money instead of splashing out on 'could be this' fixes.

[Pauly]

Do you deffinatly know its electrical and not fuel related?

Paul.

[kami]

The fueling is fine as I thought having the 1098 needle may have had an affect but I've since got my finger out and swapped it for the 1275 needle. The car's a bit faster now.
The float chamber is also full and the pump is also working.
I think the problem actually lies with the altenator as I'm not getting a reading from it when the car is running and it's not showing a charge voltage, this may be due to the wiring or the fact it may be gubbed. I'll change it anyway as I have one sitting.

[giz]

i'd also say it was the coil over heating

[maurais]

does sound like suspect coil gota admit.

maurais

[kami]

Turned out to be a stray wire that was tucked away when the new engine was fitted, It came from the altenator and should have joined onto the starter via the live lead from the battery.

All is well and the coil is fine!