7 replies to this topic

[jif2006]

Model: Mayfair
Year: 1990
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible): Changed points condenser around 3-4 months ago originally and then again changed them around a month ago and then it seems to be doing the same fault again.

Its not my vehicle so I cant say how its been driven but I know when stated up it is revved quite a bit and sometimes with choke out for a lot of the journey.

My question is is the fault likely to be with the engine or the driver? also my local specialist has said there has been a poor batch of condensers going around and what with winter this hasnt helped

Can any one shed some light on this or is there an undelying fault causing the condenser to fowl up and then when the car heats up and the resistance in the condenser increases cause the car to splutter and stall!

I am in quite a hurry to progress with diagnostics so appreciate any kind responces.


Any non-standard parts that might be involved with the problem?stage 1 kit

Kind Regards

Bradley

[Big_Adam]

Well, condenser can go bad for the hell of it. If it's really a problem then you might as well advice the chance to electric points. It's expensive (around £100) but it means (hopeful) no more broken car.

[Retro_10s]

Well, condenser can go bad for the hell of it. If it's really a problem then you might as well advice the chance to electric points. It's expensive (around £100) but it means (hopeful) no more broken car.

or spend £8 on the britpart electronic ignition kit.... but that would be blindly guessing what the problem is,....

Anyway. What other things have you checked? All electrics prefer to run as cold as possible so the fact that it's only happening once the car is warmed up etc could suggest it's an electronic fault.

However it would also be a good idea to check the float and Needle-valve assembly inside the Float chamber (if you're running a carb) if this is dirty, clean it out and/or replace it with a new one and as a preventative measure insert a Fuel filter <if there isn't already one> into the fuel lines,... preferably right after the fuel pump.

I would also be interested to see if you are running the correct Coil,... you should be running a Ballast resisted Ignition system which requires a specific coil to work correctly <the usual 12V coil will not suffice for long> fitting the wrong type will lead to contact points burning and condenser failure etc, causing the symptoms you describe.

[jif2006]

Cheers for your responces guys,

Retro_10s... Following on from your post

However it would also be a good idea to check the float and Needle-valve assembly inside the Float chamber (if you're running a carb) if this is dirty, clean it out and/or replace it with a new one and as a preventative measure insert a Fuel filter <if there isn't already one> into the fuel lines,... preferably right after the fuel pump.

I have in the past had the carb off and checked and cleaned out the float chamber and installed an inline fuel filter around a month and a half ago

I would also be interested to see if you are running the correct Coil,... you should be running a Ballast resisted Ignition system which requires a specific coil to work correctly <the usual 12V coil will not suffice for long> fitting the wrong type will lead to contact points burning and condenser failure etc, causing the symptoms you describe

The coil could you elaborate a little as to its identity I can get a picture and send via email but am unable to upload to this site lol.

Any further assistance would be greatfully appreciated.

Kind Regards and thanks for taking the time to read

Bradley

[Retro_10s]

The coil could you elaborate a little as to its identity

Here's a link to Minispares Coil page= >>CLICK ME<<. I can't seem to find the correct coil for a 1990> 998cc engine however, as they list 1989onwards as SPi's.... Does your Mayfair have the original engine in it? To tell if you are running a Ballast Resisted system, look for a pink and white wire going to the coil. Normal 12V systems do not have this extra harness.

In terms of uploading pictures,... Join Flickr or photobucket, These sites enable you to host pictures and link to them using [img] tags, rather than uploading them direct to TMF.

[jif2006]

Once again thanks Retro for a quick and detail'd responce.

I have been to my local supplier specialist and was advised if there was a white wire with a pink trace to remove this as it changes the 12v to a 9v system when engine is running is this correct?

Also is this advisible as they also agree this is likely to be the fault but did state that the old type condensers were much more reliable then the newer ones I have to agree as since I have had minis for around 4 years now the last 8 months have been plagued with lots of minis coming in with condenser fauilures

I was also advised that the upgrage to remove the points and condenser a system which looks really simple a backing plate to go underneeth the rotor arm and two wires on -VE and the other +VE to the coil to the primary or secondary section of the coil? top or lower is this correct?

Kind Regards

Bradley

[Ethel]

If it is ballasted you can't just remove the pink 'n white, it's the only supply when the engine is running. Read up on the system there have been lots of topics describing it properly.

If you can get hold of an ohmmeter you can check the coil and the ballast resister are correct. Condensers are cheap enough to just replace if suspect: blue pitted points and signs of them overheating would indicate it's faulty; using a 12v coil on a ballasted system would do the same.

[jif2006]

Update:

I have just replaced the points and condenser and where the other day I was able to drive for a very short period today after replacing the condenser I recieved a better spark and turnerd over and fired but extremely poorly also when throttling the car would simply not pick up any revs.

I am conserned that the vehicle was running fine over the last month or so and all of a sudden has created a fault which on first glance has not been able to be rectified with the aid of replacing the usual suspected points and condenser I am thinking it could be the coil after all....

I would like to check the coil for resistance I do have Ohmmeter but I believe if between 0.4 - 0.9 Ohms this is to hogh is it to 20 200 or 2000 on the Ohms scale I should be measuring and also is it as simple to check that the correct coil is inplace to check it is a 12v coil any way I do have another coil newer and better looking condition etc.

Kind Regards

Bradley