10 replies to this topic

[rendersonique]

I have touched on this in a previous post an hour or so ago, and its just got me a little concerned. Today I purchased an oil that I thought would be best suited for my car based on what else was available. I bought Castrol GTX Magnatec 15W-40. Now I thought about getting a classic oil, but then I thought that all engines are basically made up of steel bearings, rubber seals and various other alloy /brass/copper components. Below is the selling speal to the oil I have bought:

"We understand what it takes to keep your car working just as it should. New Castrol Magnatec contains Intelligent Molecules for active and continuous protection, keeping your car at its peak for longer. Tested and approved to European Automobile Constutors Association (ACEA) and American Petroleum Institute (API) specifications.

Castrol Magnatec 15W-40 A3/B3 is suitable for use in automotive engines including turbocharged and intercooled diesel engines where the manufacturer recommends ACEA A3/B3 or API SL/CF 15W-40 oils. Approved to Volkswagen and Mercedes Benz specifications. ACEA A3/B3, API SL/CF, MB 229.1, W 505 00"

OK, so what makes a classic oil any better than an oil like the above? Also, just had a quick skank around on the net and I am getting the impression that the A3 is a petrol based standard, and the B3 is a Diesel standard. Can anybody shed any more light on this??

Cheers

Andy

[taffy1967]

Well if you'd done a search here on suitable oil Andy, you'd find hundreds of threads and the general consensus is that Minis require a classic type of oil because it's engine and gearbox are combined and modern oils are really only suitable for modern engines, where as the Minis engine dates back to the early 1950's. Plus it's gearbox gives the oil a right hammering before the engine sees it.

it's up to you what oil you use, but the best protection for a Mini is 20W/50 classic oil from Duckhams, Penrite, Millers Transverse M or even that classic oil that Halfords stock with a picture of a Mini on it's tin.

My Mini is a 1990 model and I ordered Duckhams Q Classic 20W/50 off the net as I was having problems getting any locally.

Oh and my owner's handbook tells me that I should be using 10W/40 oil, but that was just because Rover were using the same oil for all it's models regardless and they didn't want to recommend an oil for older types cars when they were still making Minis.

Just look at the recommended service intervals they quoted on the later Mini models and a service every 12,000 miles just isn't good enough for the Mini. It needs a service every 6,000 miles at the very least. I tend to do mine every 3,000 miles which equates to about 6 month intervals for me.

Edited by taffy1967, 11 January 2009 - 08:49 PM.

[taffy1967]

This is where I got mine from: -

http://www.4wheelpla...p-25000264.html

As I mentioned in this thread: -

http://www.theminifo...amp;hl=Duckhams

[rendersonique]

This is where I got mine from: -

http://www.4wheelpla...p-25000264.html

As I mentioned in this thread: -

http://www.theminifo...amp;hl=Duckhams

Taffy,
Thanks for the in depth reply. Hope you didn't think I was ignoring your coments on my last post, I just thought that I would find out what the general consesus was. What you have pointed out (engine and gearbox etc) makes sense. Appreciate the feedback.

Cheers

Andy

[Sprocket]

THe API specification is the one you need to look out for. API SE or SF is about as modern as you want to go for an in sump transmission.

[taffy1967]

This is where I got mine from: -

http://www.4wheelpla...p-25000264.html

As I mentioned in this thread: -

http://www.theminifo...amp;hl=Duckhams

Taffy,
Thanks for the in depth reply. Hope you didn't think I was ignoring your coments on my last post, I just thought that I would find out what the general consesus was. What you have pointed out (engine and gearbox etc) makes sense. Appreciate the feedback.

Cheers

Andy

No worries and as you own a MKII Mini Cooper S you might want to join and register it on the Mini Cooper Register forum. I'm sure they'd agree with me on the choice of engine oil too.

[lrostoke]

I've always follwed the general concenus and used 20/50 either Duckhams or Halfords classic, one thing I did notice in the recent cold snap when temperatures where down to -7 and -8 some mornings going work, was that until the engine was starting to warm up gear change was noticably stiffer, didn't have to force it but definite resistance. Only recently changed the oil and filter as well just before the cold weather set in.



Did a bit of searching and going off that chart I would think a better oil would be 15w40 mineral oil.

20/50 is only rated there to 0 degrees.

[1275midget]

what if the engine oil is separate from the gearbox oil?

midget manual says use the same in both, but was wondering if i might do better with gearbox oil in gearbox and a more enginey biased oil in the engine

don't suppose it makes much difference, but would be interesting to know thoughts

[T.Harper]

what if the engine oil is separate from the gearbox oil?

midget manual says use the same in both, but was wondering if i might do better with gearbox oil in gearbox and a more enginey biased oil in the engine

don't suppose it makes much difference, but would be interesting to know thoughts

If you have managed this then yes, a thinner engine oil would benefit, and it would also benefit from less foreign particles in the oil. However why change a design that worked for 50 years - just drive and maintain well!

[taffy1967]

A thinner engine oil won't give the same level of protection to the baulk ring synchro's as a good quality classic 20W/50 oil will.

Plus the Minis gearbox gives the oil one hell of a pounding before the engine sees any too, so I doubt a cold morning start is going to cause any problems.

[taffy1967]

This is the oil that my Owner's Handbook recommends: -





But it's never run so well since I started using Duckhams Q Classic 20W/50 a few years back.