8 replies to this topic

[al_reidy]

my honda type-r engine and hydra ecu combo wont idle very often, it just stalls.
it needs a tune for sure but i cant drive it anywhere due to it stalling.
can i pretty please have a map from someone's car? i know it will need tweaking for my exact setup but it will be better than i have now!

stock engine with zcars exhaust system.

thanks... i hope.....

[z cars chris]

al you will find the idle control valve in the throttle body will have seized up its very common you need to strip it out and free it off with WD 40 then it should be loads better
the base maps are rich to prevent any problems holing pistons etc on your first run out
if you are stuck give us a call we can talk you thru stripping the throttle body
chris

[al_reidy]

al you will find the idle control valve in the throttle body will have seized up its very common you need to strip it out and free it off with WD 40 then it should be loads better
the base maps are rich to prevent any problems holing pistons etc on your first run out
if you are stuck give us a call we can talk you thru stripping the throttle body
chris

Thanks for you reply chris. I have since stripped the throttle body and removed the idle control valve. taken that to bits and cleaned everything.
it wasnt seized and looked remarkably clean bar a bit of soot.
reassembly shows its not done anything.
it back fires when try to start with smoke coming from the air filter, it will eventually start if you try about 5 times in a row with some throttle but will sound like its mis-firing while you rev it.
then it will stall as soon as you leave the throttle.
i decided it was a worth replacing the spark plugs which made no difference either. (iridium ones)

any other suggestions?

[z cars chris]

al you will find the idle control valve in the throttle body will have seized up its very common you need to strip it out and free it off with WD 40 then it should be loads better
the base maps are rich to prevent any problems holing pistons etc on your first run out
if you are stuck give us a call we can talk you thru stripping the throttle body
chris

Thanks for you reply chris. I have since stripped the throttle body and removed the idle control valve. taken that to bits and cleaned everything.
it wasnt seized and looked remarkably clean bar a bit of soot.
reassembly shows its not done anything.
it back fires when try to start with smoke coming from the air filter, it will eventually start if you try about 5 times in a row with some throttle but will sound like its mis-firing while you rev it.
then it will stall as soon as you leave the throttle.
i decided it was a worth replacing the spark plugs which made no difference either. (iridium ones)

any other suggestions?

we have had a few that have spit back when first started after being stood for several months this can cause the cam timing to be out as the oil pressure isnt enough to keep tension on the cam chain and it can jump a tooth
this then causes poor starting and idling problems
first port of call would be idle control valve next wouldbe to look at cam timing
if you are bringing the car for a dyno setup we would check that for you and put it back to where it should be
it doesnt break anything just makes you scratch your head till you find it
ive seen a couple of cars that have been to other rolling roads and been set up with the cam timing wrong
they only got 190 bhp out of the car when it should read 230 and they wondered why
you can check the timing pretty easily if you ring for a chat we can talk you through it
i would pull the rocker cover off and theres a little tin plate just above the crank pulley once you have them off ring us and we can do it whilst you are looking at the motor
dont worry about it once its re set and run up it will be fine
chris

[al_reidy]

al you will find the idle control valve in the throttle body will have seized up its very common you need to strip it out and free it off with WD 40 then it should be loads better
the base maps are rich to prevent any problems holing pistons etc on your first run out
if you are stuck give us a call we can talk you thru stripping the throttle body
chris

Thanks for you reply chris. I have since stripped the throttle body and removed the idle control valve. taken that to bits and cleaned everything.
it wasnt seized and looked remarkably clean bar a bit of soot.
reassembly shows its not done anything.
it back fires when try to start with smoke coming from the air filter, it will eventually start if you try about 5 times in a row with some throttle but will sound like its mis-firing while you rev it.
then it will stall as soon as you leave the throttle.
i decided it was a worth replacing the spark plugs which made no difference either. (iridium ones)

any other suggestions?

we have had a few that have spit back when first started after being stood for several months this can cause the cam timing to be out as the oil pressure isnt enough to keep tension on the cam chain and it can jump a tooth
this then causes poor starting and idling problems
first port of call would be idle control valve next wouldbe to look at cam timing
if you are bringing the car for a dyno setup we would check that for you and put it back to where it should be
it doesnt break anything just makes you scratch your head till you find it
ive seen a couple of cars that have been to other rolling roads and been set up with the cam timing wrong
they only got 190 bhp out of the car when it should read 230 and they wondered why
you can check the timing pretty easily if you ring for a chat we can talk you through it
i would pull the rocker cover off and theres a little tin plate just above the crank pulley once you have them off ring us and we can do it whilst you are looking at the motor
dont worry about it once its re set and run up it will be fine
chris

Wow, chris your a legend for the quick detailed response!
however after reading the service manuals for the engine and looking at the photo i took with the case off.
 IMG_0041.jpg   38.49K   27 downloads
it looks fine to me.
the trouble shooting guides say you should check fuel pressure. which i can only assume is now controlled by the power boost valve i bought from zcars. i cant see it being that though.

have you ever seen it be the throttle motor not controlling the throttle and letting it stall?

thanks again for your help.

Al

[al_reidy]

i figured it out! yey!

Chris you were right to think the idle control valve, it was actually the wiring loom for the hydra ecu! the socket for the idle control valve had a dodgy connection, i have re-crimped the terminals and water proofed again and it works!

The idle was much better but it was still lumpy. i let it warm up and could hear the fuel pump more than normal, so a quick look under the car to find the transparent pre-pump fuel filer was full of bubbles. what was happening was the overflow from the power boost valve was dropping back in the tank right above the intake for the pump causing the bubbles to be flung around and spat into the engine.
moving the fuel return to the front of the tank , switching it with the non-return valve has cured that problem.
i guess my small amount of fuel was kinda to blame also.

its all sweet now. so thanks Chris once again. Legend.

Al

[z cars chris]

thats good theres always an answer its just going through it till you find the actual fault
ive seen all sorts of things over the years i once was a full day trying to start my own race car i couldnt get fuel to it and thought it was the injectors not firing, id done the loom myself and it was a hayabusa so id done plenty
if you squirted fuel into the throttle bodies it struck straight up
couldnt understand it tried all sorts
there was plenty of fuel in the tank
put different throttle bodies on it nothing
stumped completely
took fuel pipe off tank to change filter/see if it was blocked.... no fuel came out of tank we had not drilled the outlet pipe after welding it onto tank BUGGER
still i wnet racing next day so it all ended up ok
its a standing joke here now
are you fetching the car across for a dyno sometime it will be nice to see her finished
chris
chris

[al_reidy]

thats good theres always an answer its just going through it till you find the actual fault
ive seen all sorts of things over the years i once was a full day trying to start my own race car i couldnt get fuel to it and thought it was the injectors not firing, id done the loom myself and it was a hayabusa so id done plenty
if you squirted fuel into the throttle bodies it struck straight up
couldnt understand it tried all sorts
there was plenty of fuel in the tank
put different throttle bodies on it nothing
stumped completely
took fuel pipe off tank to change filter/see if it was blocked.... no fuel came out of tank we had not drilled the outlet pipe after welding it onto tank BUGGER
still i wnet racing next day so it all ended up ok
its a standing joke here now
are you fetching the car across for a dyno sometime it will be nice to see her finished
chris
chris

Thats quite a funny story, it sounds like something i would do.
i think i have figured out other things with it. the ecu miss reads the coolant temperature and therefore sends the map off.
im using the sensor provided with the digidash. im going to check the nemisis software on the current map to see if its somthing i can change with the Delco, ford or mazda CTS settings.
What coolant sensor do zcars use?

yeah should be ready for a tune soon. whats the normal cost for a tune?

cheers chris.

[z cars chris]

al sorry i didnt answer ive been in colombia and bulgaria for two weeks then mad here so ive only just looked on the forum tonight
we charge £85 an hour for dyno work
should take 2 or 3 hours
well worth it as we get good results from the cars now
chris