Hi All
Couple of very quick questions re a 25 D dizzy.
Do the wires from the LT side and the capacitor need to be touching or do they need to be insulated from each other - the HBOL is a bit unclear.- I brought a lucas repair kit and it is SLIGHTLY different to the old parts in the dizzy.
I replaced the vacuum unit as the old one was broken, ABOUT how much should be showing on the vernier scale to get the car running - I can get the car tuned later to really sort it.
The knurled nut adjuster on the end of my vacuum unit is a bit raggedy - does anybody know where I can buy a new one at all?
thanks all
cheers colin
Dizzy Help If Possible.
Started by
minijazz
, Feb 07 2009 03:54 PM
2 replies to this topic
#2
dklawson
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- TMF+ Member
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- 10,923 posts
Moved Into The Garage
- Name: Doug
- Location: Durham, NC - USA
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Posted 07 February 2009 - 04:06 PM
You've asked several questions. I'll try and address them but I'm bound to miss a few things.
The condenser should have a single wire, not two. One electrical connection for the condenser is its mounting foot, the other is the single wire coming out. The wire goes to the place on the points with the threaded post/stud. It is VERY important that you pay attention to the order of the insulating washers on that threaded stud. The stud should be electrically isolated from everything that attaches there (part of the points, the condenser wire, and the wire going out the side of the distributor. If the insulators are in the wrong place or omitted, it's effectively like the points never open and the coil will not fire.
Also important on the 25D is the need for the breaker plate earth wire. This will be a high-flex braided copper wire with a piece of cloth insulation on it. The wire goes from the breaker plate over to the dizzy housing. This must be in place for proper operation. Don't confuse this with the other high-flex wire that goes from the points off to the insulated connector on the side of the dizzy (and then goes to the white/black wire going to the coil).
On the timing issue, set the knurled nut somewhere in the middle of its span. Once you've done that, static time the car to 5-8 BTDC. Placing the knurled nut in the middle will allow you to easily advance or retard the ignition timing as necessary within a reasonable range. If you are not familiar with static timing, download my PDF on the procedure.
http://home.mindspri...taticTiming.pdf
The condenser should have a single wire, not two. One electrical connection for the condenser is its mounting foot, the other is the single wire coming out. The wire goes to the place on the points with the threaded post/stud. It is VERY important that you pay attention to the order of the insulating washers on that threaded stud. The stud should be electrically isolated from everything that attaches there (part of the points, the condenser wire, and the wire going out the side of the distributor. If the insulators are in the wrong place or omitted, it's effectively like the points never open and the coil will not fire.
Also important on the 25D is the need for the breaker plate earth wire. This will be a high-flex braided copper wire with a piece of cloth insulation on it. The wire goes from the breaker plate over to the dizzy housing. This must be in place for proper operation. Don't confuse this with the other high-flex wire that goes from the points off to the insulated connector on the side of the dizzy (and then goes to the white/black wire going to the coil).
On the timing issue, set the knurled nut somewhere in the middle of its span. Once you've done that, static time the car to 5-8 BTDC. Placing the knurled nut in the middle will allow you to easily advance or retard the ignition timing as necessary within a reasonable range. If you are not familiar with static timing, download my PDF on the procedure.
http://home.mindspri...taticTiming.pdf
#3
minijazz
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- Members
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- 173 posts
Mini Mad
Posted 07 February 2009 - 07:05 PM
You've asked several questions. I'll try and address them but I'm bound to miss a few things.
The condenser should have a single wire, not two. One electrical connection for the condenser is its mounting foot, the other is the single wire coming out. The wire goes to the place on the points with the threaded post/stud. It is VERY important that you pay attention to the order of the insulating washers on that threaded stud. The stud should be electrically isolated from everything that attaches there (part of the points, the condenser wire, and the wire going out the side of the distributor. If the insulators are in the wrong place or omitted, it's effectively like the points never open and the coil will not fire.
Also important on the 25D is the need for the breaker plate earth wire. This will be a high-flex braided copper wire with a piece of cloth insulation on it. The wire goes from the breaker plate over to the dizzy housing. This must be in place for proper operation. Don't confuse this with the other high-flex wire that goes from the points off to the insulated connector on the side of the dizzy (and then goes to the white/black wire going to the coil).
On the timing issue, set the knurled nut somewhere in the middle of its span. Once you've done that, static time the car to 5-8 BTDC. Placing the knurled nut in the middle will allow you to easily advance or retard the ignition timing as necessary within a reasonable range. If you are not familiar with static timing, download my PDF on the procedure.
http://home.mindspri...taticTiming.pdf
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