4 replies to this topic

[davos1983]

I have just spent the best part of the last nine months replacing the whole floor of my clubman estate - some pics are in my project thread with more to follow.

Before i refit the rear subframe, i want to completely paint the floor and rust protect it so it stays shiny and new and so that rust doesn't return again. My question is what are the best routes forward to protect it?

The panels were already etch primed and my plan is now to use POR 15 metal ready along all the welds, then POR 15 paint followed by Tiger seal seam sealer along all my welds. I then thought another layer of POR 15 paint over all this followed by Waxoyl on top.

Firstly - does this combination and more importantly the order of their application sound correct?

Secondly - is waxoyl designed to cover the whole floor or is it mainly designed for areas where water collects such as in the sills? Would it be appropriate to spray the whole floor?

Look forward to all replies and alternative methods!

Dave

[Goopster]

Hi Dave,

I'd say with that sort of attention to detail, your floors will last a lifetime! Your choice of materials is spot on, in my opinion. POR15 is brilliant stuff, and is not likely to chip like Hammerite can, and it certainly seems to stop both old (and new) rust in its tracks. Shame it is so bloomin expensive LOL. Anyway, i'm sure that you will have no problems - for many years.

If it helps, on my restoration, I will be doing a very similar combination to you for the underside & inside wheel arches;

1) Clean off / grind away all surface rust and/or replace panels if necessary
2) Dinitrol RC800 Rust Converter or Metal Ready (got both, not sure which one I prefer) - RC800 does act as a primer as well as a rust converter
3) POR15 Paint
4) Tiger Seal any joints

Then I was going to take a different approach -

5) Wurth Stone Guard (NOT underseal, but the proper, overpaintable, very slightly rubberised stuff)
6) Overpaint with Cellulose in Body Colour

Then I was going to

7) Waxoyl - But in body cavities only (sills, pillars etc)

Your order of application sounds fine.

My step number 5 is different to yours, and i'm still not totally sure if I should be using it, but I have heard it is good stuff if you plan to overpaint with body colour. Is this something you plan to do, or will you leave it POR15 black? (Not that there is anything wrong with that).

You mention doing the whole underside in Waxoyl; it will certainly do no harm, the only reason I only use it in cavities is that I want to keep the underside looking clean. I know it's a bit OCD, but I don't like the look of Waxoyl when it is sprayed on 'visible' underside panels (wheelarches etc) - Maybe it was just my bad luck, but with the last car I used it on, I found it picked up all of the gunge and muck from the roads and looked really dirty in no time.- my car will most probably be a summer runabout only - if you are using yours in all weathers, it might be prudent to apply it all over.

All the best, Mark

Edited by Goopster, 11 March 2009 - 09:39 PM.

[Saxo-Fiesta-Mini]

Areas i can see i use stone chip, outside areas get tetroshutz, i like it - and its thick so it sticks does the job.

[davos1983]

Thanks for the replies - its great to know im sort of along the right lines!

My plan was to keep the whole underside of the car in black - i figure it will end up black in the end anyway through road dirt so may as well paint it black to save it looking scummy! Good tip on the Waxoyl though - dont really want it pickingup all the sh*t off the road so will probably keep it for the cavities.

[1987_ParkLane]

Did you use high zinc weld through primer along the welds?

Anyway, on the outside, use some stone chip stuff, I use tetra schutz, like in the photo:



And on the inside, primer over bare matal, then use the tetra schutz.

And in areas where water might settle, primer over bare matal, then lots of waxoil, then tetra schutz.