7 replies to this topic

[jackminivan]

Model:van
Year:1975
i am planning on striping down my calipers and rebuilding then completly, does anyone know any good info on doing this and also what parts i will need and were to get them from.........thanks alot guys jack

[jackminivan]

have a photo of the caliper......ewwwww

[rosco454]

Hi mate to do this you will need a set of seals (usually comeas a kit) and a set of new pistons - both available from the likes of mini spares and they only cost a few quid.

First thing to do once you have them off the car is to remove the dust seals and take out the pistons,outer piston is normally blown out with an airline or similar.Depending on which callipers you have (eg, 8.4" discis etc) the inner can be pushed out through the hole left by the brakehose.

Next clean up the calliper body as much as possible and make sure the area where the seals sit is as clean as possible.

Lubricate the new piston seals with brake fluid and pop them in,followed by the new pistons again lubed with fresh brake fluid - they should push in by hand fairly easily.

Finally fit the new dust seals and your done.

Hope this helps,Ross.

[Saxo-Fiesta-Mini]

mini sports out of stock cheapest best quality company if Bigg red brakes theyre an awesome company got my caliper pistons next day give em a ring they have more stock then alot of people and ive never been let down by em

01905428793

Edited by Saxo-Fiesta-Mini, 11 March 2009 - 09:04 PM.

[jackminivan]

thanks alot guys great info!

[L400RAS]

Also it is adviseable NOT to split the caliper in half for this job. If the callipers are still on the car, do one at once, remove the calliper from its mount, but leave it connected - you can then pump the pistons out most of the way with an assistant. Put a piece of metal a bit thicker than the disc between the callipers - you dont want to pump the pistons out fully, else you will be covered in high pressure brake fluid. Then disconnect it, and the pistons can be wiggled out fully with mole grips, or one side can be pushed out thought the supply line hole.

If it also adviseable to purchase 2x copper washers for when you re-connect the brake lines after you've done the job.

Ryan.

Edited by L400RAS, 14 March 2009 - 03:36 PM.

[mini7boy]

Also it is adviseable NOT to split the caliper in half for this job. If the callipers are still on the car, do one at once, remove the calliper from its mount, but leave it connected - you can then pump the pistons out most of the way with an assistant. Put a piece of metal a bit thicker than the disc between the callipers - you dont want to pump the pistons out fully, else you will be covered in high pressure brake fluid. Then disconnect it, and the pistons can be wiggled out fully with mole grips, or one side can be pushed out thought the supply line hole.

If it also adviseable to purchase 2x copper washers for when you re-connect the brake lines after you've done the job.

Ryan.

I second the idea about not splitting the calipers. Unless the pistons are absolutely irremovable, you should be able to remove the pistons, clean out their bores, remove main seal, clean out its groove, and remove/replace the outer seal.....all with the caliper in one piece without being separated.

Use brake fluid to lube the parts if you must, but there are some excellent rubber lubes made for brake parts specifically. Get the seals good and slippery so that they fit into their spaces. When you start, you'll swear that the main seal is too big to fit into its groove, but once you get it good and slippery, it forces in by hand nicely. Twisting the piston slowly and gently helps it ease its way past the main seal

Consider replacing the pistons with stainless steel units, available from the usual sources. They may be pricey, but they are resistant to corrosion and they transfer less heat from the pads to the seals.

I use a small rectangular and FLAT piece of plywood that runs between the caliper halves and extends far enough out each side that a gentle tap or two on the plywood guides the thin metal ring into place evenly and flush with the caliper surface. Of course, the flatter you can hold the wood piece, the more evenly the metal ring slides into place.

You should renew the brake fluid and fully bleed the whole system, even though you are not opening the rear half up. Brake fluid absorbs water with age leading to lowered boiling points and more corrosion of the caliper bore specifically.

Edited by mini7boy, 15 March 2009 - 06:40 AM.

[jackminivan]

wow great info cheers guys