Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Very Stiff Gearbox; Crunching In 1st And Reverse


  • Please log in to reply
5 replies to this topic

#1 Grodecki

Grodecki

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 186 posts

Posted 30 March 2009 - 08:25 AM

Hi all.

Suddenly got another problem with the car, it's very very stiff to engage gears (mainly 1st and 2nd), will often crunch as if the clutch is not fully down, and reverse gets a SERIOUS crunch when going into it, and requires a lot of force. Double-de-clutching does not help.

1992 Cooper SPI.

Clutch does not seem to be slipping, so I don't think it's completely dead.

Any ideas, folks?

Hope it's not to expensive ;)

Cheers.

Edited by Grodecki, 30 March 2009 - 08:34 AM.


#2 Guess-Works.com

Guess-Works.com

    Gearbox Guru

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 19,838 posts
  • Local Club: Rugby Classic Mini Owners Club

Posted 30 March 2009 - 08:36 AM

First suspect would be the clutch...

Reverse is a crash gear so no matter how many times you double declutch it'll make no difference.

Bleed the hydraulics on the clutch system see if it improves matters... basically it's dragging which is causing the crunch in reverse.

When you say the "clutch is not fully down" do you mean the pedal does not make it to the floor... If so this is the clutch throw out stops which are preventing full movement... ( two nuts on the end of the plunger ) undo these and with the assistance of another person, get them to press on the clutch pedal all the way down, and then wind the inner nut in until it make contact with the case. Release the clutch, turn IN the nut two futher flats and lock off with the second bolt, but bleed the clutch first

Edited by GuessWorks.co.uk, 30 March 2009 - 08:40 AM.


#3 Grodecki

Grodecki

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 186 posts

Posted 30 March 2009 - 08:40 AM

Eugh. Clutch was supposedly only changed under 20k miles ago! if it is that, which one will I need? Will it be the entire kit?

Got to drive home tonight which will be...fun :/ Then I'll give the bleeding a go.

Clutch seems to make it all the way down, but I'll make sure that it does.

Edited by Grodecki, 30 March 2009 - 08:41 AM.


#4 Guess-Works.com

Guess-Works.com

    Gearbox Guru

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 19,838 posts
  • Local Club: Rugby Classic Mini Owners Club

Posted 30 March 2009 - 08:47 AM

There's probably nothing wrong with the clutch itself, just the bits which make it function.... hence the bleeding ( if that's not been done in a number of years then there WILL be air in the system ) just the same as the brakes need bleeding periodically.

#5 Grodecki

Grodecki

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 186 posts

Posted 30 March 2009 - 03:24 PM

Started up and went home, clutch was fine for half the distance, then everything got a bit stickier and eventually horribly notchy.

Is there a guide anywhere to bleeding the clutch?

#6 Ethel

Ethel

    ..is NOT a girl!

  • TMF Team
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 26,000 posts
  • Local Club: none

Posted 30 March 2009 - 03:36 PM

There's a "haynes subatitute" pinned at the front of the techie section, it's just the same as bleeding brakes just simpler. Easiest is to just suck the fluid through with a syringe connected to the bleed nipple with a bit of hose. Pull back the rubber boot on the slave cylinder 'n check for brake fluid it could be the slave cylinder piston seal is on the way out.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users