
Installing A Towing Eye
#1
Posted 31 March 2009 - 07:28 PM
The toweye replaces the bolt and nut which attaches the body to the front subframe.
MY question is in which order should I place all the pieces to fit the toweye properly. (Example from front to back: Toweye-small washer-body-subframe-big washer-spring washer-bolt).
Also, should I jack the car/subframe to do the procedure or can it be done by just removing the current bolt and nut and replacing with this hardware? Would the subframe fall if I remove the current bolt?
Thanks.
#2
Posted 31 March 2009 - 07:35 PM
I purchased a towing eye from minispares (part# KPU100160). As per they recommendation I also bought a 3/8 bolt (part# GFK5195), a 3/8" plain washer (GFK1115), a 3/8 "spring washer (GFK1126) and a big heavy duty flat washer (PWZ207).
The toweye replaces the bolt and nut which attaches the body to the front subframe.
MY question is in which order should I place all the pieces to fit the toweye properly. (Example from front to back: Toweye-small washer-body-subframe-big washer-spring washer-bolt).
Also, should I jack the car/subframe to do the procedure or can it be done by just removing the current bolt and nut and replacing with this hardware? Would the subframe fall if I remove the current bolt?
Thanks.
The subframe wont fall, the front mounts arent structural they are just to stop the front panel wobbling all over the place.
I had one fall out a while back and had similar fears to yourself, was travelling at 70ish on the motorway when I heard a loud banging under the floor which was the towing eye leaving. Fortunately I was close to a mini garage who put my mind at rest and gave me a bolt to use instaed.
#3
Posted 31 March 2009 - 08:19 PM
I purchased a towing eye from minispares (part# KPU100160). As per they recommendation I also bought a 3/8 bolt (part# GFK5195), a 3/8" plain washer (GFK1115), a 3/8 "spring washer (GFK1126) and a big heavy duty flat washer (PWZ207).
The toweye replaces the bolt and nut which attaches the body to the front subframe.
MY question is in which order should I place all the pieces to fit the toweye properly. (Example from front to back: Toweye-small washer-body-subframe-big washer-spring washer-bolt).
Also, should I jack the car/subframe to do the procedure or can it be done by just removing the current bolt and nut and replacing with this hardware? Would the subframe fall if I remove the current bolt?
Thanks.
The subframe wont fall, the front mounts arent structural they are just to stop the front panel wobbling all over the place.
I had one fall out a while back and had similar fears to yourself, was travelling at 70ish on the motorway when I heard a loud banging under the floor which was the towing eye leaving. Fortunately I was close to a mini garage who put my mind at rest and gave me a bolt to use instaed.
It's probably worth having a jack underneath just to aid positioning.
#4
Posted 01 April 2009 - 04:16 PM
The toweye replaces the bolt and nut which attaches the body to the front subframe.
MY question is in which order should I place all the pieces to fit the toweye properly. (Example from front to back: Toweye-small washer-body-subframe-big washer-spring washer-bolt).
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Thank you all. Any suggestions regarding the proper order od the washers?
#5
Posted 01 April 2009 - 06:31 PM
Don't know what the small washer is for if the hole in the big washer is the right size (i.e. big enough and no more).MY question is in which order should I place all the pieces to fit the toweye properly. (Example from front to back: Toweye-small washer-body-subframe-big washer-spring washer-bolt).
Also, should I jack the car/subframe to do the procedure or can it be done by just removing the current bolt and nut and replacing with this hardware? Would the subframe fall if I remove the current bolt?
I would go tow eye - body/subframe - large washer - small washer - spring washer - nut.
No need to jack, you might find the body moves slightly when the original bolt is removed but just push/ lever/pull it back into place and fit the tow eye.
#6
Posted 01 April 2009 - 07:53 PM
If what you have got is a towing eye bolt with a plain shank it needs a nut on both sides of it. Thread one nut onto the towing eye, then a spring washer and a plain washer so that there is roughly the same length of thread left as the total length of the original bolt. Then insert it all through the front panel, subframe mounting and frame and place the large washer behind the frame, with another small washer, spring washer and nut. Spring washers always go between a nut and a regular washer and the large washer is there to spread the pulling force. As you tighten the two nuts toward each other, don't let the eye disappear into the body. Make sure it isn't touching the body aperture when everything is fully tight, you can adjust the position of the components on the eye bolt as it is all tightened to make it fit. The eye needs to be standing free so it can be towed on without damaging the body or simply snapping off. Last time I fitted one of these it turned out to be a very funky extra-fine metric thread that I had trouble finding nuts to fit.
If you have a towing eye with a stop on the shank so that it looks more like a bolt with a head then do pretty much the same but you don't need the first nut and washers. Just the large washer on the rear of the frame and a plain and spring washer behind that then a nut.
If you have a towing eye that ends in a tube nut, offer a screw (not a bolt, it needs more or less a fully threaded shank) with a large washer over it through the frame from the rear then on the front of the subframe mounting add a plain washer, spring washer and the tube nut and tighten the screw. Personally I'd Locktite this type as well.
With the last two types there isn't much you can do to adjust the fitted position but you shouldn't need to.
#7
Posted 03 April 2009 - 12:06 PM
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