10 replies to this topic

[Bazooka Joe]

If I pull the drive shaft out of the gearbox, will the engine oil come out? 1275 automatic.

[MRA]

yes ! If you mean complete with inner CV joint that is...

[Bazooka Joe]

I think so. I have to change the outer CV rubber boot and I'm struggling to split the outer CV joint off the drive shaft on the car so I thought I'd pull the whole lot off, and split it off the car. Although I'm even struggling to do that at the moment. I have the top ball joint off, the brake caliper and disc and the steering arm off and the shaft still won't come out and I just cannot split the bottom balljoint. Doin' my head in!!

[MRA]

THe bottom ball joint, you will need to use a ball joint seperation tool or a hammer on the end of the lower arm gentle but firmly hit the end of the ARM not the ball joint this will shock the them apart you may need to apply a downward pressure so put the top ball pin back in to the top arm but not tight screw the nut on fully but do NOT tighten....

You now have something to lever against for removing the lower ball pin.

You can hold the driveshaft in one hand and using a copper mallet hit the back of the outer CV to jar it off the shaft, hit and then turn through 120 degrees and hit it again etc..... but do NOT damage it as it would mean replacing the CV joint.

To make it a little easier follow the next stage in between stages 1 & 2 above.

Ok, if you have a few long cable ties and a good clean plastic bag, then remove very carefully the steel strap holding the inner CV rubber boot onto the inner CV gently pull the shaft a little way, catch the grease in a bag and the internal part of the inner CV in another bag to keep it all clean. this will now pass out through the subframe and allow you to dis-assemble easier.

[Bazooka Joe]

Believe me, I have tried everything - I have a ball joint splitter, the fork type, and have been hammering 'till my arm aches. I've also hammered the end of the arm, and put a 3 foot bar against the chassis pressing down on the lower arm and standing on it and it still won't budge! Maybe I need to bounce on it a bit more, but I'm worried the car falling off the jack. I'll try again tomorrow, but boy is it making me want to smash it bits with my hammer!! As for splitting the CV, I put a pair of mole grips near the end and then tried to force a screwdriver through the gap to split it but nothing doing there either, hence I'm trying to take the whole lot off the car. Next time, I'm paying someone else to do it!

[AlexM]

This is a difficult job the first time you try it,

If you know your going to come up against something stubborn then soak it in WD40 overnight. Try getting some heat into the top arm where it joins to the swivel pin part of the ball joint.

I personally find the forked type of splitter to be innefective most of the time. A scissor type is much better. Scissor Type Ball Joint Splitter.

The easiest way to remove the driveshaft complete is to use the correct splitter tool. to seperate the inner CV from the differential. You will have to drain the engine oil before you do this. This is an expensive tool, but I've used it maybe 10times now and it makes the job far far easier.

Alternatively, release the metal clip surrounding the CV rubber boot and remove it that way, leaving the outer part of the joint still attached the the differential housing.

If you end up hammering seven bells out of the upper and lower ball joints then please replace for new genuine items, they are such a point of safety that its certainly not worth risking your life and the lives of your passengers by reusing knackered joints

[MRA]

You do NOT need to hammer the ball joint at all !!! This is a taper and hitting the end will cause it to swell thus becoming "wedged" within the arm, all you do is aim the hammer blow on the end of the BOTTOM arm inline with the length of the bottom arm. This gives it support and focusses the force on to the sides of the pin.

DO NOT HIT THE TAPER PIN !!!

[Bazooka Joe]

I am hitting the lower arm side on to the ball joint, as well as try the splitter but that keeps sticking on the rubber cover. I have the outer CV rubber off any way and I've tried clamping the shat while hitting the back of the CV joint abd still nothing. Why do they put circlips on anyway, it's not like it's going anywhere? I had used a bit of WD40, although it's hard to get it to soak in being upside down. Tomorrow I' going looking for my 2lb lump hammer!

[Bazooka Joe]

I finally got the bottom ball joint off after lots of hammering, swearing, WD40, more hammering and a load more swearing! I even managed to take off the outer CV joint without taking the driveshaft off the car. Then I cleaned it all up, put the new boot on the driveshatft and refitted the CV, filled it full of grease as supplied with the boot kit then went to put the steel tie wrap on. And slipped when pulling it tight. AAAARRRRGGGHHHH. Calm thoughts. Now I need a steel tie wrap on a bank holiday monday because I'm back to work tomorrow and was hoping to get it done by then. The next time, I'm paying someone else to do it.

[MRA]

Are Halfords open today ?

Thay carry some spares or at least you could fit a plastic TIE STRAP which are available from nearly any car or DIY shop ??

[roofless]

B&Q - steel ties available in the plumbing / electrical area - used for doing earth straps as their proper use - can be used as a temporary fix.
may only be in the bigger B&Q warehouse outlets though.

failing that - green plastic coated twist wire from the garden department. - use it doubled up and twist till its good n tight - then trim the ends off.