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Head Stud Tourque Settings


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#1 leepol83

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 04:57 PM

Hi read some threads but still unsure so here goes what is the tourque setting for youre head one book says 50lbf ft one says 42lbf ft and some people are saying 60lbf ft

The haynes says cylinder head nuts 50lbf ft
cylinder head nuts (emmision control engine)40lbf ft (Whats that mean then)

if people just put the tourque settings they have successfully used that will be fine thanks guys any advice welcome

my engines a 1330cc if it makes any difference...... :P

#2 MRA

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 05:48 PM

All you are trying to do is clamp the cylinder head to the block and avoid leaks..... too much torque will give you too much clamping load and may lead to head distortion...

50lb is good enough, if you choose to use ARP's then read their fitting instructions as they recomend oiling prior to fitment... which will require a lower torque setting :P

#3 mini7boy

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 06:51 PM

All you are trying to do is clamp the cylinder head to the block and avoid leaks..... too much torque will give you too much clamping load and may lead to head distortion...

50lb is good enough, if you choose to use ARP's then read their fitting instructions as they recommend oiling prior to fitment... which will require a lower torque setting :P

it's the head gasket, specifically its fire rings, that is likely to be damaged, not the cylinder head.

one reason for your seeing different torque figures is that the torque to be used depends on the lube used or not. If you use the ARP lube, it is the most slippery so the lowest torque figure
is recommended

the other extreme is torquing them with no lube. Motor oil is somewhere in between.

Try searching this forum and the Minifinity forum as this topic was covered to death very recently.

I use 42 lbs/ft. on my 1310cc racing engine with ARP studs and lube.

#4 MRA

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 07:19 PM

Yes the head gasket will be damaged, but so too could the cylinder head, more so if its alluminium !

#5 leepol83

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 08:23 PM

All you are trying to do is clamp the cylinder head to the block and avoid leaks..... too much torque will give you too much clamping load and may lead to head distortion...

50lb is good enough, if you choose to use ARP's then read their fitting instructions as they recommend oiling prior to fitment... which will require a lower torque setting :P

it's the head gasket, specifically its fire rings, that is likely to be damaged, not the cylinder head.

one reason for your seeing different torque figures is that the torque to be used depends on the lube used or not. If you use the ARP lube, it is the most slippery so the lowest torque figure
is recommended

the other extreme is torquing them with no lube. Motor oil is somewhere in between.

Try searching this forum and the Minifinity forum as this topic was covered to death very recently.

I use 42 lbs/ft. on my 1310cc racing engine with ARP studs and lube.


Thanks for the replies would you reccomend replacing the studs aswell then as its a brand new engine done about 400 miles now if so where do you get them arp ones from thanks

Edited by leepol83, 19 April 2009 - 08:24 PM.


#6 Nightrain

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 08:31 PM

42lbsft is what you'll find in the original Workshop manuals for the mini, it's only the 'haynes book of lies' that states 50.

#7 scrumpymini

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 09:37 PM

Do you also have to do them up again after the engine has done a few miles or is it just a one off torque up.

#8 MRA

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 09:56 PM

50 ftlbs has worked well for me for almost 30 years, my own 1380 turbo has been on this setting since I first built it in 1991

Some people say at 50 miles and then at 1000 miles

#9 Dan

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 10:30 PM

BMC manuals state 40, Rover manuals state 50. They refer to Minis using different type head gaskets and different spec head nuts, and different engines really. As said above 40 is also listed in later manuals for the emission control engine (to answer the question this refers to the engines used on American and Canadian export Minis fitted with exhaust port air injection systems). 50 has always worked for me, without any special lubes. Just a very tiny amount of engine oil. I've always re-torqued after one heating and cooling cycle, not after any miles at all. If you leave it too long before re-torquing all you do is break the seal.

#10 leepol83

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 04:44 PM

BMC manuals state 40, Rover manuals state 50. They refer to Minis using different type head gaskets and different spec head nuts, and different engines really. As said above 40 is also listed in later manuals for the emission control engine (to answer the question this refers to the engines used on American and Canadian export Minis fitted with exhaust port air injection systems). 50 has always worked for me, without any special lubes. Just a very tiny amount of engine oil. I've always re-torqued after one heating and cooling cycle, not after any miles at all. If you leave it too long before re-torquing all you do is break the seal.



Thanks guys anybody else for 50 as I think thats the way ime going to go with mine..

#11 MRA

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 08:13 PM

The haynes says cylinder head nuts 50lbf ft
cylinder head nuts (emmision control engine)40lbf ft (Whats that mean then)



emission control is exactly that, its a system to control the exhaust emmisions and was created primarily for the Californian smog test..... I don't think it went elsewhere but could be mistaken....

Now as you are building a 1330 that could be nice and powerfull................... you may need a mission control :)

Edited by mra-minis.co.uk, 20 April 2009 - 08:14 PM.


#12 icklemini

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 11:25 PM

i do them to 45.. hot and cold cycle and retorque. works for me on road and race.




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